From Banagher we headed north west towards Westport, our destination for that day. We felt very fortunate that Rosarie had not only been able to join us on the cruiser, but was able to be with us for the 6 day rest of our stay in Ireland. We couldn't have wished for a better tour guide or more knowledgeable local driver. And she was a ton of fun with a wicked sense of humour!
First stop on the way was at the small town of Ahascragh to check out the De Courcy pub. Quite cool to visit a pub in the middle of Ireland with one's maiden name on it. What a character Bryan, the publican, was. Greeted us like long lost family and he and his son Emmet were very hospitable. While there we watched a video put on for some American visitors of an Irish hurling match. Fast, furious and somewhat like hockey. Toasts drunk, photos taken, addresses exchanged, and we managed to get on our way, driving through lovely lush rolling countryside.
Took a short detour before Westport to Knock, which became a pilgrimage site after 15 villagers saw an apparition which appeared for 2 hours on the gable end of the local church in 1879. We expected to see a small wayside chapel, so were amazed to find a large modern church, the original parish church, a large car park, and a shrine with a depiction of the apparition - Virgin Mary with Joseph and John the Evangelist, and to the side of them, a lamb on an altar, with a cross behind, and flanked by angels. About 20 years ago a miracle occcurred at Knock. A visiting pilgrim who was bedridden with advanced multiple sclerosis, walked out of the church and doctors confirmed that she was completely cured.
Westport was an attractive city. We walked around exploring and checking out which pubs had live music on that evening. Rosarie had heard that it was National Fish & Chip Day, so that proved a tasty option for tea.
Last time Paul and I were in Ireland most groups weren't even tuning up until after 11pm, which was disappointing, as we were usually ready for sleep by then after being up early and sightseeing all day. But this time there was usually a gig going somewhere by 9pm. We heard some great traditional Irish music over the next several days.
Friday morning dawned sunny and clear. Fuelled by a full Irish breakfast at our hotel, we set off for Croagh Patrick, which is reputably the mountain from which St Patrick banished snakes and demons from Ireland. It is a favourite pilgrimage site for the Irish Catholics, but it sure ain't a walk in the park. We stood beside the statue of St Patrick at the start of the walk, and looked up at the top of a high cone shaped mountain with disbelief and trepidation, having been told that the average time to get to the top was 2 hours. The "mountain " is 764m high.
Rosarie had been expressing reservations about being fit enough to do the climb, then proceeded to bound up like a gazelle!! We had been expecting a well worn track, but that was the exception rather than the rule. It was covered in large stones and we had to watch every footfall. The first section was a steady uphill climb; the second a welcome gentle gradient, and the third a gruelling about 60 degree gradient up to the top. Paul made it in 1hr 50mins, Rosarie 2 hrs, and me 2hrs 10mins, relieved to make it to the top.
Other walkers were quite sociable, and we heard some interesting stories. One lady who was doing it for her 12th time, said that on her previous 11, there had been mist at the top, so the view was obscured. So we were fortunate to enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of Clew Bay with its 360 islands, and the surrounding hills and countryside.
Another man in his mid 80s who walked with me for parts of the way, was doing it for his 833rd time, having started 12 years previously when he retired, driving for about four hours across from Dublin each time (about once a week), and being back home for dinner. He was aiming to notch up 1000 ascents. Astonishing.
There is a small chapel dedicated to St Patrick at the top of the mountain. Some marriages happen there. He told me that one time there was a fit girl dressed in army fatigues ahead of him carrying her wedding dress over her arm. The whole wedding party had walked up, and the service was videoed to waiting guests down in the carpark. On the day we were there we talked with the painter who was giving the chapel a new coat of paint. Paul asked whether he was brought up by a helicopter. He said that the paint was, but he had walked up about 3000 times! Who knows- we sometimes found that the Irish don't let the truth get in the way of a good story!!
The descent wasn't easy either, and several people slipped on the stones, including me twice, but no harm done. One of the most difficult hikes I have ever done. Hot showers and cool drinks were very welcome on our return to nearby Westport. More great music that evening, and a sound night's sleep for all three of us.
The next day headed south down the West Coast. First stop was at Kylemore Abbey. Interesting story. A hunting lodge originally stood where the Abbey is today. Mitchell Henry brought his new bride there in 1850. Margaret was so charmed by Connemara that Mitchell returned and bought the 15,000acre estate and created one of Ireland's most iconic castles as a gift for her. The Henrys had nine children, so they would have had plenty of room to play, both inside and out. Mitchell created the first model farm in the west of Ireland and cultivated the largest Victorian Walled Garden with 21 glasshouses heated by a network of water pipes. In 1893 he found that the water pressure from Lough Touther on top of the mountain could be used to generate electricity.
In 1920 the Castle and Estate were acquired by an order of Benedictine nuns, who are still there today, although in fewer numbers.
Our lunch stop was at a delightful tearooms with a charming cottage garden which had been the base for the Aras coastguard between 1790 and 1860. Flower and shrub gardens aren't a big feature in many of the new homes we saw, but they do have well kept lawns.
The next section of our drive took us through The Burren, a barren area of striated karst rocks with a harsh beauty of its own. I was about to take a photo from the car when Rosarie parked the car, asked for the camera, and took this arty photo of stone wall and sea with the rocky hill reflected in the car mirror. The stone walls all around Ireland are works of art. Some of the older drystone ones have been standing for hundreds of years. In some places we saw where new walls had been constructed to tie in with existing ones, so it is not a dying trade.
Our B & B in Doolin was owned by a delightful lady with the most astonishing range of collectables in her breakfast room. You can see some in this photo of Paul having enjoyed a great breakfast. What you can't see are two harps, several porcelain dolls in intricate costumes, an old phonograph, and much more!
Photo here is of one of the best Irish groups we heard -on a lively evening in Doolin.
The next day's route took us past the stunning Cliffs of Moher, and through lovely coastal and country areas to Adare, which our neighbour Rosanne had recommended visiting. It has the reputation of being one of the prettiest towns in Ireland, which you will see from these photos is well deserved. We were fascinated to see new thatching on some of the houses.
We walked to Adare Manor on the fringe of town, had a superb lunch in the exclusive golf club there, then a look inside the manor, which is set in acres of beautifully maintained gardens.
On its first floor the manor boasts the longest dining room in Ireland. It underwent major renovations from 1822, and now operates as a high end hotel.
Then on to Killarney, where we stayed at the large modern Brehon Hotel. In the adjacent car park there was a huge international Harley Davidson motorbike meeting happening. Paul enjoyed looking at some very classy and grunty bikes. That evening Martin and two friends came from Cork and the six of us went to an amazing show called Celtic Steps. The lead dancer has been judged the best Irish male dancer for the past five years. Great band, and the violinist did some singing as well in a lovely soprano voice. Superb evening's entertainment. If you are interested you can see a segment on a YouTube clip....just type in Celtic Steps.
The next morning we diverted to see Muckross house and gardens. The area surrounding them became Ireland's first National Park. The photos will tell the story!
Then to Ross Castle.
Arrived at Rosarie's lovely Cork apartment with time to unpack, shower and change before heading to a de Courcey family gathering which she had organized. It was great to catch up again with those we had met in 2008, and meet others for the first time. A very convivial gathering of about 20 family members.
Had a quiet day on the Tuesday, doing laundry and catching up with emails. That evening met up with Mary and Jerry Fitzpatrick. We were delighted that Mary's knee replacement only 8 days before had been a great success, giving her freedom from pain and rapidly improving mobility. They took us for dinner to their favourite local restaurant. A very pleasant note to finish our time in Ireland on.
The next day we flew from Cork to Bristol..........next story!
The separate belltower with its clock was also impressive. We walked through it and the monks' graveyard to lovely gardens in a public park beside the Avon, which was in flood following the heavy rain the day before. You can get an idea from the submerged seat in the foreground of the photo. Wasn't bothering the swans and ducks! Back in the town Paul was intrigued with this black and white building in the town square which had a decided lean to the left! Commented that the builders of the 12th century churches had done a better job of achieving absolutely straight walls, spires etc without the benefit of any of the modern methods and technology available today.
We stopped briefly at Henley, of rowing renown, where preparations were underway for a regatta at the weekend.
Mid-afternoon we returned our rental car to Heathrow Airport, and then made our way by tube to Clapham, where Katie met us. Walked for only 8 minutes to her's and Mark's apartment, where they made us very welcome and comfortable for the next few days. Katie looks great, and pregnancy going well. Baby due late August.
During the days we went off in to the city sightseeing. Walking around central London is like being on the Monopoly board with all the familiar names! We had intended walking up to the viewing deck of St Paul's Cathedral again but as it was a Sunday and there were services happening at various times of the day it wasn't allowed. It is a magnificent church and the story about how Wren designed it, and then got it built with its huge dome rather than the more traditional shape is a fascinating one. We were treated to a stirring organ recital.
Also saw a tableau of steel figures commemorating the abolition of slavery and the 50th anniversary of Martin Luther King preaching in St Paul's.
On the day we left London Katie and Mark were going to a garden party at Buckingham Palace in the afternoon. Invitations are by ballot, and this was the fifth time they had applied. They struck it lucky with a beautiful fine day, enjoyed the pm tea, saw several of the Royals, and met Prince Philip. Photos here.
