Tuesday 29 August 2017

San Francisco and Lake Tahoe

San Francisco and Lake Tahoe - July 2017

Circular patterns from irrigators











We had a good flight from Calgary to San Francisco on Saturday 15 July. Great views of the countryside and San Francisco Bay and city as we neared our destination. Saw some strange patterns on farms in places. Looked like UFO landing pads, I thought. Turned out that rather than having the long sprinklers which our NZ dairy farmers use, these Californian ones have stationery ones in the middle of a paddock, and the circular pattern shows the reach of the water! We were also intrigued to see pink and white salt flats at places around the Bay.

San Francisco skyline
Karen and an excited Blair met us at the San Fran baggage claim while Erik waited poised in the car to pick us up. We drove through the central city past familiar landmarks such as Lombard St, then went to Chrissie Field which is a large park beside the harbour. It was transformed starting in 2001 from a former military airfield into a vibrant environmental showcase through the generosity of two local couples, as well as thousands of community volunteers and donors.
Today, the restored Crissy Field is a stunning place to walk or bike on a flat, hard-packed promenade with iconic views of the Bay and Golden Gate Bridge. There were hundreds of people there as it was a lovely fine day, and it  was a hive of activity. Kids flying kites, families having picnics, skate boarders, cyclists, walkers, swimmers, windsurfers, etc. Driving from there up to the approach to the Golden Gate bridge was painfully slow – it took about an hour to progress only about 1.5 kilometres.  In total, about four hours for a trip from the airport of just over 50Km, which in ideal conditions, should take just over an hour. The joys of driving in a big city on a sunny Saturday when everyone is out and about!

Delicious brunch
Karen, Erik and Blair were staying in a house belonging to their good friends, and it was roomy enough for us to stay with them. Clare and Thue's house in Fairfax was lovely, in a nice suburb looking out to tree covered hills. They were away to England with their two kids, so Karen, Erik and Blair were house and pet sitting - fish in two tanks, an adorable dog, and aloof cat.

Had the bonus of a lovely pool out the back gate. It is a large round one shared by about eight surrounding houses.  Great idea. We enjoyed swimming in it on 35C days.
Yum yum!
On Sunday morning we drove over to the Our Lady of Mount Carmel church at Mill Valley, where Karen and Erik lived when they first moved to San Francisco. Lovely Mass and the music group comprised a keyboard player/ lead singer accompanied by a superb drummer. Afterwards we went for lunch to Sunnyside cafĂ©, which was bursting at the seams. A popular spot with the locals, and one of Karen and Erik’s favourites. Has been owned by the same man for years, who is very hands on, and recognized them from previous visits. Delicious brunch, which filled us for the day! Spent the rest of the day relaxing around the pool.
Karen and I trying out a Tesla for size!




Karen and I went shopping one afternoon
and came home with some new clothes.
Managed to resist a classy all electric Tesla
which the salesman would have dearly

liked to have watched us drive out the door. 
At over US $100,000 we didn't think so!







We drove from there on the Monday, heading for South Lake Tahoe, which is 300Km north-west from San Francisco. Drove through a large area of wetlands not far north of San Fran. Bypassed Sacramento as we intended visiting there on our return journey, and stopped in Placerville at lunch time. It was an historic town with an interesting history. In 1849, the town earned its most common historical name, "Hangtown", because of the numerous hangings that had occurred there.[10] According to the museum guide at the Fountain & Tallman Museum, there were only three hangings that occurred after three men on horseback came into town with guns ablaze. The name stuck after that. By about 1850, the temperance league and a few local churches had begun to request that a more friendly name be bestowed upon the town. The name was not changed until 1854 when it became the City of Placerville. References to Hangtown are seen around the town, including one mannequin hanging from an upstairs window! Paul located an historic pub in which we had a delicious clam chowder lunch.


Curious chipmunk

Karen had booked a very comfortable and spacious house set among trees at South Lake Tahoe.
Tuesday was a lovely 25C day and we started out at 9am (Paul had a rest day back at the house) on a hike in the diverse El Dorado National Forest. Quite challenging at times - taking a side trail over rocks, tree trunks etc to avoid a very watery section of the trail, walking on tree trunks to traverse streams, navigating some steep uphill sections etc. Great scenery - trees, snow capped mountains, tumbling streams and cascading waterfalls, some huge rocks of various types, etc. Saw cute chipmunks (got photos), a squirrel, who like his cousins in BC scooted away too quickly for me to get a photo, and several species of brightly coloured birds. But most exciting was seeing three bears - a medium sized black one ambled across the road in front of us just before we reached the parking area, a large cinnamon coloured one was about 50 metres away from us on the trail, and saw another black one just as we were leaving. Karen and Blair had never seen them in the wild, and Erik not since he was ten. So that made our day. 


Lind family enjoying hike
Rugged landscape on hike

Big bear in forest
Lakeside view at Lake Tahoe
Beautiful waterfall

Blair standing on great stack of rocks



Cascading creek








The next day we went on another hike, but a gentler one, at Emerald Bay around the shoreline of Lake Tahoe. No bears, but several chipmunks, squirrels and lizards.


Lunch by Emerald Bay

Erik at Vikingsholm Castle




Eagle falls


Smoke haze over Lake Tahoe


Casinos over border in Nevada at South Lake Tahoe village
The Vikingsholm foundation was laid in 1928, but the building was constructed in 1929 by 200 workers.[2] Vikingsholm was built by Mrs. Lora Josephine Knight as a summer home. Before starting construction, Mrs. Knight and her architect traveled to Scandinavia to gather ideas for the construction of the house. Some parts of the structure contain no nails or spikes, as a result of old-fashioned construction methods. Most of the building was made from materials found at Lake Tahoe.
Mrs. Knight is best known for building Vikingsholm, but she and her husband Harry, a businessman were primary backers of Charles Lindbergh's non-stop solo flight across the Atlantic in 1927.










By that evening the whole area was covered with smoke from forest fires near Mariposa, which borders the Yosemite National Park, almost 300Km south of Lake Tahoe. Here's hoping and praying that they are brought under control soon. Many thousands of people  had to be evacuated from their homes, and a State of Emergency was in place from 18 July with the evacuation order not being lifted until 28 July, by which time the blaze had destroyed 78,500acres and burnt down 130 buildings.





Dramatic mountains













We saw Vikingsholm Castle which is a 38-room mansion on the shore of Emerald Bay at Lake Tahoe, in El Dorado County, California, and on the National Register of Historic Places
Mountain pass




















Sacramento building
On our way back to San Fran we stopped at Sacramento, which is the Californian State Capital, and saw the Capitol State Parliament building. We went to an amazing Railway Museum there. While queuing with 8yr old Blair to have his turn as a train driver on the simulator, we were chatting with a family of Mum, Dad, and four lively boys aged between 3 and 11. They told us that they had been evacuated from Mariposa, which is at the heart of the big fire burning near Yosemite National Park. They said that the smoke was really intense, and rather than stay in the area, they had driven north in their car until they had run out of the smoke. So that fetched them up in Sacramento, 240Km north of their home. We do hope and pray that they have a home to return to when the fires are finally extinguished. 

Blair at Railway Museum


Sonoma engine



Knowledgeable volunteer


Karen beside large diesel engine







Blair receiving instructions on simulator
Listening intently
Driving the bullet train simulator at 250kph
Very dry prairie on our way back to San Francisco


So a couple of relaxing days at Fairfax at the end of our trip were very welcome. The pool was great to swim in on the hot days. Late Saturday we flew from San Francisco to Los Angeles, and then on Air New Zealand back to Auckland.  Just as well it wasn't either of our birthdays on the Sunday as we completely lost that day!    















Monday 28 August 2017

Banff and Calgary -July 2017



BANFF  AND  CALGARY - July 2017

Radium Hot Springs entrance to Kootenay National Park




On Monday we said goodbye to Windermere to drive 100Km through the stunning Rockies from Radium Hot Springs in the Kootenay National Park to Castle Mountain in the Banff National Park.  We were amused to see some big horn sheep grazing on the side of the road as we started. It was an overcast and cooler day so good for travelling. Had been quite a hot 35C in Windermere the day before.  The entrance to the highway at Radium Hot Springs was through an impressive gorge which had been blasted through the rock. You can get an idea of the height of it in adjacent photo, where it dwarfs one of the big semi-trailer trucks There were many stunning views of jagged snow covered mountain peaks, clear streams and tree covered slopes. As we drove across the Rockies we could see all the dead trees on each side of the road in one area which had been gutted by a forest fire several years ago. 
Tree lined hills on highway

Castle Mountain








The recent fires in British Columbia have been a major concern. With over 200 fires at one stage and 14,000 people evacuated from their homes, the province has been in a State of Emergency since 5 July and it has just been extended for the third time to 1 Sept. Very difficult for the fire crews to deal with in hot conditions with winds fanning them. The smoke from a big fire near Princeton (which we had driven through) had closed the highway and was drifting over to Calgary, in Alberta, when we were there. We were very fortunate that our travels and stays in BC preceded all this drama, and we were fully able to appreciate the beauty of this very scenic province.

Craggy Rockies

Banff Springs Hotel
Hotel with mountains behind it
Reg and Sherry
Pat and Paul
Mountain from which stone hewn for hotel building




At Castle Rock we headed south on Hwy 1, the main Trans-Canada Highway to Banff, which is a truly awesome mountain village. It is within the Banff National Park, with the skyline dominated by the peaks of Mt Rundle and Mt Cascade. At 1400 metres above sea level skiing is popular in winter and hiking, camping, and playing golf of an adjacent golf course  in summer. Nearby attractions are hot mineral springs in a cave which has an outdoor mineral pool, and the Bow Falls which is a major waterfall a short distance from the hotel. 







Banff Hotel lobby



Banff Springs Hotel has to be seen to be believed. In the late 1800s William Van Horne, General Manager
of the Canadian Pacific Railway, saw the tourism potential of the Canadian West. To enhance traffic on the railway Van Horne envisaged a series of lavish resort hotels along the railway line through the Rocky and Selkirk Mountains. The first wooden hotel at Banff was completed in 1888, but unfortunately burnt to the ground in a fire in 1926. It was rebuilt larger using rock from an adjacent mountain, and now boasts an astonishing 764 guest rooms and suites. We walked through the impressive foyers, dining area, and historical photo display. All very interesting. 

View of lobby from stairs

Sweeping staircase
Sherry and Paul viewing historic photos

Dining area


View of valley, river & Rockies from hotel deck

View from deck

Facade Banff Hotel

Sherry got Paul to pose beside this bear as she
                                                                                said it would probably be the only one he saw                          in Canada!
Paul admiring bear sculpture






Bow River, Banff

Three Sisters at Canmore

Downtown Banff


Three Sisters at Canmore





From there we stopped for lunch at Tim Hortons in Canmore, from where we had a great view of the Three Sisters, a trio of peaks in the Rockies. They soar 2, 936metres above sea level and are named Faith, Hope and Charity (or Big Sister, Middle Sister and Little Sister). Very impressive.







We arrived in Calgary late afternoon that day. 
 There was a big thunderstorm there on Monday evening which flooded the Stampede Grounds and necessitated the cancellation of the evening's events. Still light rain on Tuesday morning, but cleared by early afternoon, which worked well for us as we were to attend the rodeo events from 1pm on. We went early and viewed the displays, all the side shows, and the astonishing array of food on offer. Reg wryly commented that if it could be put on a stick, someone would be frying it! We did try corn dogs, similar to our hot dogs, but with a thicker, lighter coating. We liked them. We even saw a booth selling Deep Fried Coffee. Go figure that! We couldn’t.
 
Canada Day colours on Stampede stilt walkers




Parks ranger presenting turtle to entranced kids    


One man band!




























Stunning horse sculptures











Clydesdales


Display of skilful horsemanship (by women)
100 musicians of Calgary Stampede Band

Sherry's great action photos show the drama
When our friends suggested that we time our Canadian trip to coincide with a visit to the Calgary Stampede, we had some reservations as rodeo events we had attended in the past were country ones in Central Otago, where the horses delighted in bucking off the farm workers trying to stay on top!
However, the rodeo events at the Calgary Stampede were very well organised, and the cowboys very experienced and tenacious. The riders climbed on to the back of the horses in pens, gave a nod when they were ready to go, and the horse or bull exploded out on to the arena, bucking and twisting in its attempt to dislodge the rider. The cowboys could hold on with only one hand and needed to stay on for a minimum of eight seconds. 






Doesn’t sound very long, but those horses and bulls bucked and turned many times and most times these experienced cowboys managed to last the distance before a horn sounded and outriders helped the cowboy to dismount. Scoring was out of 100 – 50 for the cowboy and 50 for the horse or bull. The highest score we saw was 90.5. Sometimes the outriders needed to lasso a horse or bull to lead it in to the holding pen. Sherry got some amazing action photos which you can see here.
Women competed in barrel races – like a slalom, and rode their horses very well. 
Cowgirl barrel racing






                 
3 generations of First Nation family






















At the end some of the First Nation men competed in a                                                                                                   very fast bareback relay race. 

                         Bareback riding relay
Intense focus




















On the Tuesday Reg and Sherry picked us up to visit the Heritage Park Historical Village which is a historical park, on 127 acres of parkland on the banks of the Glenmore Reservoir, along the city's southwestern edge.


"Main Street"

Heritage house
Wonderful displays in shops
Clydesdales taking people for ride around park
 This was an interesting place with beautifully manicured grounds and period attractions. It is a well planned village with friendly knowledgeable staff. All activities were included in a reasonable entrance price.  We  learnt all about steam trains and that included having a ride on one, farm animals where you can watch the pigs wallow in mud, old style houses where they actually bake goodies, sell sweets, books, soaps etc, There is also an amusement fair with a Ferris wheel, bumper cars and more. Horses pull a cart with its passengers around the park. We had a trip on the paddle boat which took us for a sail around the reservoir - absolutely glorious on a hot day to get a lovely cool breeze, with good views of the city.

About to go for lake tour on paddle boat
View of Calgary skyline





Sherry and Reg enjoying cruise









Gasoline Alley Museum is steeped in automotive tradition and nostalgia, this venue transporting us back to a revolutionary era in western Canada’s history. We were captivated by the stunning vintage vehicles, antique gas pumps and colourful automotive memorabilia. . You can see some in the photos. The truck below is still working removing the rubbish barrels from around the park.


 



Big moose


Elk sculpture
                                                                   

Before we went back to our hotel Reg and Sherry took us on a detour out of town to view one of the strangest geological formations on earth – the Okotoks Glacial Erratic. Erratic refers to material moved by geologic forces. Big Rock is a 16,500-tonne boulder that lies on the otherwise flat, relatively featureless, surface of the Canadian Prairies in Alberta. It was transported there on top of a glacier from 400Km away at Jasper during the Ice Age 12,000 years ago. It is huge and of a very unusual composition. Fascinating to see. Three of the other most interesting geological formations on earth are the Moeraki Boulders, Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, and the Twelve Apostles off the coast of Victoria.
Okotoks Glacial Erratic


On Thursday we went back to the Calgary Stampede, this time to watch the chuck wagon races, stage show and fireworks in the evening. Sherry had chosen our seats when bookings first opened last year, so we were in a great spot in the middle of the grandstand only a few rows up, so prime viewing vantage point.

We spent that afternoon there also, to take in some other shows. The Western Art is defined as art that is visually identifiable depicting themes of western prairie/ mountain culture, lifestyle, heritage, and characters, The art is diverse in medium and subject including, but not limited to the following: ranching, landscapes, rodeo, agriculture, First Nations, florals, portraits, architecture and wildlife. Some stunning paintings and sculptures.








Heritage wagon

Horse paintings






Someone we had spoken to had suggested that an Adrenaline Rush motorcross show was well worth seeing. We wondered about the wisdom of this when we were offered ear plugs as we went in!! Loud music, amazing lighting displays, and the feats performed on motorbikes were mind blowing. They roared up one ramp, sailed across a 23 metre gap, and landed on another ramp, while doing back flips and other gravity defying feats. The blurs you can see in these photos are the riders sailing across the gap on their bikes!


Assorted dogs and handlers at Dog Show







The Dog Show which we went to after that was positively tame, thank goodness! About eight dogs with their handlers obeyed commands to walk on their back legs, catch Frisbees in mid-air, dive across a pool, and skip! All of the dogs had come from shelters or SPCA places, and looked devoted to their handlers.

Dog balancing on handler's feet!


So on to the evening show. Chuckwagon racing is a team event, led by a driver who commands a team of four horses pulling the chuckwagon, and is supported by two outriders, each racing individual thoroughbred horses that follow the chuckwagon. 
The Chuck Wagons first do a circuit of barrels in the arena, and then belt around the track, the first one completing the circuit in 1min.10 seconds. Thrilling stuff. There were several heats.










Clydesdales doing circuit of arena
A stage was then pulled on to the arena and set up for an amazing show of dancing, singing, a trapeze artist, girls balancing on bikes, and the 100 member Stampede Band. It was hosted by popular singer and recording artist Jann Arden.  A truly spectacular show, followed by an awesome fireworks display. An incredible audio and visual treat. Certainly something very special to watch.

Setting up stage for evening show

Lighting effects with band performing
Trapeze artist above flames on bike
A delicate balancing act

                                       Spectacular fireworks

The whole cast on stage for finale
Spectacular aerial display


Enjoyed meeting Sue & Bill at Okotoks
On our last morning in Calgary we met up with a lovely couple, Sue and Bill, from Florida.
Karen had been speaking with them about their forthcoming trip to NZ in February, which Latitude South was arranging. Sue mentioned that in the meantime, they were planning a trip to Canada. Karen said that was a coincidence - so were her parents! This is a very small world, as we were going to be in the same area in July, so we arranged to meet, and had a lovely time together. We look forward to seeing them here in Nelson in February