Thursday, 6 July 2017

Alaska - June 2017

North to Alaska -June 2017

Boarding at Seattle
We really liked Seattle. Many wooded areas and trees in abundance. Boarded the Ruby Princess in the afternoon and set sail at 4pm – north to Alaska!
Ruby Princess at Seattle
The ship is like a 5 star floating hotel. There are approximately 3200 passengers on board – 2900 Americans and about 300 from another 17 countries. We have met Canadians, English, Singaporeans, but as yet no other Kiwis or Australians. Our cabin is lovely. Bed wide and amazingly comfortable, a dressing area with wardrobe, and well equipped bathroom.



Explorers Lounge
The ship doesn’t seem crowded, as there are numerous themed lounges, bars and restaurants, three swimming pools, spa pools, fitness centre, mini golf course, etc etc. We have chosen “Anytime dining” which means that we can choose a formal restaurant or buffet one. We usually go to the buffet one for breakfast of cereals and fruit, followed by scrambled eggs. That sets us up until dinner in the evening, which we enjoy in one of the formal dining areas. We are usually placed at a 6 or 8 seat circular table, where we are joined by other passengers and have  interesting conversations with a wide variety of  people.

Waiting staff are numerous, attentive and usually delightful Filipinos or Malaysians. Approx 1000 crew members in total. The Italian Captain, Giuseppe Romano, is actually Commodore, the head of the entire fleet of 18 Princess cruise ships. The Cruise Director, Peter Tredgett, is English – he has boundless energy and a great sense of humour.

Sunday, the first day the weather was cool and rainy, so we were fortunate that we were at sea for the day, heading up the coasts of British Columbia and Alaska towards Juneau, the capital of Alaska. That day we enjoyed a great selection of the shows and activities which were on offer on the ship. In the morning we saw a riveting presentation by a fisherman, David, who had some amazing tales to tell and photos to show of the challenges involved in fishing in the Bering Sea, off the coast of Alaska. A little later, we listened to Michael Modzelewski, who lives on a remote island. His presentation was entitle Alaska: The Last Frontier: Life in the Wilderness of Alaska. He said that in a survey done by the local government a few years back, it was found that there were 10 men to every woman in outback Alaska. So, he quipped, the odds for women are good, but unfortunately for them, many of the goods are odd!!
                                                                                                                                                            That evening passengers dressed formally. The Captain did a Welcome Aboard speech and the crew created a 30 level tower of champagne glasses. Guests were then able to help pour champagne in to them, and share a glass of bubbles once the glasses were full. We met a lovely Canadian couple, Bev and Dave Coulsen, at our first dinner, and had several shared meals and drinks with them during the cruise.

Monday morning we attended another presentation by Michael, who talked about the bears, bald eagles, wolves, etc. and showed some amazing slides of animals, birds, and some spectacular sunsets and Northern Auroras. The rain and mist continued as we docked at Juneau, so we waited a couple of hours before we went ashore, by which time the rain had stopped, and the sun appeared a short time later, so we considered ourselves very fortunate as the forecast had been for the rain continuing. We did a self guided walking tour of the town, which is only accessible by sea or air. It has a really interesting gold mining and fishing history, and some well preserved old buildings still in use.

Bison keeping watch




You won’t be surprised to hear that Paul located the oldest pub, which was opened in 1930. Most of the wood panelling, leadlight windows and fixtures were original, and some stuffed animals added to the atmosphere! Many of the stores sold jewellery and Alaskan artefacts and souvenirs.



Alaskan artefacts
Wooden carved eagle
Tanzanite jewellery
Mural in Juneau
















Late afternoon back on the ship we watched in wonder a magician doing some awesome tricks.
In the evening we happily attended a presentation by an amazing woman whom we had also seen on our original cruise about 12 years ago. Libby Riddles had come to Alaska as a 16 yr old, and at 26 yrs had become the first woman to win the gruelling 1000 miles Iditarod husky and sled race. She is now 57 years, a vivacious and fascinating woman who writes books for both adults and children, and gives motivational speeches. Although she no longer competes in the Iditotrod she still keeps a team of huskies and participates in the sport of running them.
We then sat in on a British Pub fun event, MCed by the cruise director joined by the ship’s dancing and singing troupe.
Bev and Dave Coulsen






Our comfortable cabin
















Tuesday we woke when the ship was berthing at Skagway. Cool windy day but the sun was shining so we set out to explore. Skagway was the starting point for gold miners hoping to strike it rich in the Yukon where gold was discovered in 1896. The Klondike Gold Rush lasted just a few short years, during which time Skaygway was a bustling boomtown with more than 80 bars! The National Historical Park covers a six block area where wooden sidewalks and faithfully restored storefronts paint a colourful picture of the town's illustrious past.



Driftwood fronted building in Skagway






In Downtown Skagway

                           Mock bar in Skagway
















Tuesday evening we watched a production in the Princess Theatre, which holds several hundred passengers. Staged by the ship's singing and dancing troupe, Once Upon a Dream was based on Alice in Wonderland and was very well done. One of the features was the animated backdrops, projected on to three sides of the stage from five projectors directly above those walls. Great effects, and when we spoke with the projectionist the next day, he said that it had taken six weeks to set up and get right. It could revolutionize sets in plays and musicals and eliminate the need to build expensive sets.
Once Upon a Dream with animated set





Singer and lighting effects
Wednesday was to be the highlight of our cruise, as we cruised from Icy Strait in to Glacier Bay, about 90Km long. At 6am three park rangers boarded the ship by climbing up a rope ladder, and gave us the benefit of their wealth of knowledge for the coming hours. As we sailed up the sound we saw wild goats grazing on the hills, bald headed eagles circling, a whale in the distance, seals basking on rocks. At the far end of the bay were the shrinking remains of the Grand Pacific Glacier, which was the one which had carved out the entire bay, and filled it until 1780. It has receded way back since then. We then arrived at the magnificent Margerie Glacier, which was spectacular. At 1.6Km wide it extended in to the sea, is 250 feet high and extends back for 21 miles (approx. 30Km). The glacier is amazingly white and gleamed with the sun shining on it. A beautiful blue colour showed in places. We were fortunate to see a huge sliver of ice “calf” off the front of the glacier with a loud sound described as “white thunder”. It created ripples out to the ship, and pieces of ice floated by. Photos will show better than I can describe! The Lamplugh Glacier was also impressive, but not so pristine.



Lamplugh Glacieer



The ice I see...........





Snow covered Alaskan mountains
Rock formations in Glacier Bay
Nature's sculpture - Margerie Glacier

Amazing Margerie Glacier
On Thursday we arrived at Ketchikan. We went to a lumberjack show which was entertaining and fun. The commentator split the audience in to two camps – one supporting the Canadian Dawson Creek team, and the other cheering for the American team. The lumberjacks exhibited their skills – racing to be the first to cut through a big log of wood, showing how two men use a crosscut saw, and climbing to the top of a 30 metre trunk. Watched an interesting documentary at the Visitor Centre, and then went on a guided tour of the town on which we were shown some of the original buildings
and told about the fascinating history of the town.

Racing up tree trunks
Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show



Park ranger guide at Ketchikan


Examples of totem poles at Ketchikan


Ruby Princess in Ketchikan Harbour



That evening, as passengers who had previously sailed on a Princess cruise, we were invited to attend the Captain's Cocktail Party. On arrival all the ship's officers were lined up to greet the guests, and we were introduced to the Captain- photo here. He said that the Bay of Islands is one of his favourite destinations. Had some delicious cocktails and nibbles. Afterwards we viewed the final production show in the theatre - Magic To Do, which featured the magician, The Ruby Princess singing and dancing troupe, and the orchestra. A spectacular visual and auditory sensation.

Off to Captain's Cocktail Party

With Captain Guiseppe Rom







Friday was a beautiful sunny day at sea, but a cool wind, so not very warm. Some hardy souls braved the pool. We saw whales and pods and dolphins, so that was exciting. There were several musical groups on board, playing throughout the ship at various venues on all days - an eight piece orchestra which accompanied some of the shows, and also put on some of their own concerts, two girls who played their violins brilliantly, a four piece jazz group, two young men who played the grand piano very well. Heard all of them on that final day. A great note to end our cruise on!
That evening we arrived at beautiful Victoria on Vancouver Island, and were cleared through customs before getting a taxi to our inner city hotel.

But this can do for now. Shall continue on another day.

Friday, 22 May 2015

Rarotonga May 2015


Happy holidaymakers with leis
KIA  ORANA (welcome,/hello in Cook Island Maori)
We left Auckland with Karen and Blair. Flight from Auckland to Rarotonga went well. I watched the movie Still Alice, a perceptive and poignant portrayal of a 50 yr old woman who developed Alzheimers.
Blair still trying to understand how we went back in time, leaving Auckland at 9.45am on Saturday, and arriving here at 3.30pm on Friday!  Will lose a day on the way home, leaving here at 4pm on Sunday, and arriving in Auckland at 7.30pm on Monday evening.
All four of us were presented with beautiiful fresh flower leis on our arrival. 


Tiny gecko saying hello
             The holiday house we are staying in is great. On its own large section with tropical flowers, coconut and banana palms. A little frustrating as the bananas aren't yet ripe, and the coconuts are, but we don't  have  a machete  to get in to them. A dire warning to not even try with the kitchen knives!! All sorts of interesting visitors - the next door neighbours dogs, roosters and hens, and this morning three pigs wandered through our front yard. Very funny. Geckos, tiny crabs  and centipedes are numerous, and  birds fly in and out of nearby trees.
Pop and Blair between banana palms
The house itself is spacious,  clean, and with all the facilities we need.
The view behind the house is of coconut palms, and shrub covered hills leading up to some steep peaks. To the front we are looking through a coconut grove to the sea. Lovely.


Once we had unpacked we decided to catch the local bus back in to town for dinner. Our understanding was that buses went both ways, but by that time they were only going in a clockwise direction so we had a forty minute scenic drive around the island in to the main township of Avarua. Had a delicious meal at an outdoor cafe beside the sea with the interesting name of The Anywhere Bar & Bistro. Relaxed friendly staff and tasty meals.
At the Saturday market

On Saturday morning we went to the weekly local market, which was colourful, lively, and interesting. Watched some great acts on a central stage - exuberant backing group, singers and dancers. The youngest members were two little girls of about 4 and 6, who had a ton of confidence and wiggled their hips almost as well as the older girls. 

Blair was on a mission to buy Karen a Mothers' Day present and settled on a lovely necklace. We bought a huge bunch of bananas which are divine - lovely creamy texture.

Mothers' Day breakfast in bed
We decided to rent a car for the convenience of being  able to  go where we want when we want rather than have to wait for once an hour buses. Driving is interesting. Motor scooters outnumber cars by about five to one, and the drivers are erratic, to put it mildly. Mainly Cook Islanders aged anywhere between 15 and 90 with a few tourists thrown in to the mix -ranging from timid to gung ho!  Bareheaded and usually with no footwear, the Islanders manage to transport kids, groceries, crates of beer, etc. We even followed one today with a whole hedge trimmimg kit tucked under his left arm!

That afternoon we drove to the lovely and popular Muri Beach, located on a lagoon. We could see waves crashing on to the outer reef. We enjoyed swimming and snorkeling there. Water was warm and enjoyable. 

Mothers' Day dawned with a lively 6 yr old prancing around the kitchen keen to give his mother breakfast in bed. She enjoyed his enthusiasm, and her breakfast!

Ornate altar
Karen and Paul with three elegant ladies
At 10am we went to a service at the Cook Islands Christian Church. Warmly welcomed, the lady beside us took fresh hibiscis flowers off her hat and pinned them in Karen's and my hair. The service was conducted partly in Cook Island Maori and partly in English.

Mothers'Day was acknowledged and celebrated. But the best feature was the singing. The music, mainly unaccompanied, washed over us in melodious waves  of sound. We were astonished at the harmonies, volume and passion. An amazing experience to be stored in our memory banks.
Just across the road from that church, which was in the middle of the countryside, on the coast, was a memorial of seven rocks representing the great migration  of the Maori canoes to New Zealand,which left from that spot. Fourteen left in 1350AD, but only 7 made it to NZ to set up settlements here. Our Maori tribes took the names of the canoes their ancestors had arrived on.

Great climbing tree
Collection of pretty shells
That afternoon we drove to a beach on the north coast which had crystal clear water for snorkeling in. A lovely Cook Islander man named Vira watched Blair splashing around, then proceeded to give him, Karen and me the benefit of his knowledge and experience. Showed us how to drop sand in to the sea to observe which way the water was running, then to just gently float on top with our snorkels and masks on to observe, as he described it, the "movie" underwater. There were hundreds of sea cucumbers, like small squishy sausages, which he described as the "vacuum cleaners" of the lagoon, purifying the water. Pretty coral, and darting fish. A great experience.
That evening Karen took us for dinner to a lovely relaxed restaurant with delicious food, Nubar.

A week later....................On the big silver bird now on our way back to Auckland from Rarotonga. Karen and Blair were given an upgrade to Premium Economy so are sitting up front with lots of leg room. I am being given a payback for making a remark about two very overweight ladies sitting behind us in the breskfast restaurant this morning. One of them is seated beside me, overflowing on to me, and wanting to be my new best friend. Thank goodness it is only a four hour flight. Paul says it serves me right!

We awoke this morning to pelting torrential rain and strong winds. Couldn't see ten metres out from our apartment towards the beach. Couldn't see how any aircraft could possibly fly in those conditions, so hoped for a clearance by the time we were due to depart at 5pm. The rain diminished a little by the time we went to Mass at the Catholic Cathedral at 10.30am. As on the previous Sunday at the  Christian Church, the music and singing were amazing -such harmony and volume. Many of the ladies were elegantly dressed in white dresses and hats. Karen noticed that many of the hats had a mother of pearl shell sitting on the crown. When we asked afterwards why this was, it is to weigh them down a little so that they  don't go flying off in a breeze!  
We were fortunate to be allowed a late check out of 2pm and by that time the rain had cleared and sun was shining. When we arrived in Rarotonga we were told that there had just been two weeks of rain, so we were relieved that they got it over before our holiday. Apart from that last day, we were treated to warm sunny days with pleasant temps of  21 to 26C, and low humidity. 

Captain Tama Cruise passengers!
Fish through boat's glass bottom
Tuesday was a perfect sunny calm day to go on a Captain Tama lagoon cruise, out from Muri Beach. A fun crew of three Cook Islanders played music and sang as everyone was gathering, then took the forty passengers (mainly NZers) out to the marine reserve area of the lagoon, where they tied the boat to a buoy.


Relaxed bronzed Paul
Good advice


Getting ready on boat
Viewing the undersea world and fish
 We were able to watch fish swimming under the glass bottomed boat - of all sizes and colours. Some small ones had zebra stripes, others were a brilliant turquoise, some yellow and white - many different types. We snorkelled around the boat and saw fish, sea anenomes, starfish and sea cucumbers around the intriguing coral structures. One of Blair's favourites were the bright blue starfish. His snorkel loosened one of his wiggly top front teeth, and as Karen pulled it out with wet fingers it slipped from her fingers into Nemo's grasp. One of the crewmen assured Blair that the tooth would become part of the coral and that the fish talked to the tooth fairy. Sure enough, she delivered that night.
From the boat we also saw some giant clams (almost a metre wide) and a turtle lumbering along the sea floor.
Climbing up palm -very fast
Talk about coconuts
We went to a quintessential Pacific tropical island for a delicious BBQ lunch of tuna with delicious salads, and barbequed pawpaw and bananas. Afterwards one of the men impressively scaled a tall coconut palm in just a few seconds.  We were then given a demonstration of how a coconut is opened using a wood spear and machete, and given fresh coconut milk to drink. A very enjoyable day.
We went swimming and snorkelling most days we were there in different places around the island.



Inland bush track

One day we were going to do a Cross Island walk up and over the hills in the centre of the island.. The plan was for the four of us to walk to the top, then Blair and I to return and collect the car and drive around to the other side of the island to have a swim in a waterfall pool, and pick up Paul and Karen. Unfortunately it had rained the night before and the track was muddy and slippery so we had to forgo that plan after only a short walk. We drove around to the Wigmore's Waterfall anyway (the perimeter road right around the island is only 32Km long), where Blair had his swim.

Abandoned hotel project
On the road in there we saw a massive abandoned building project. Paul found out later that it was to have been a luxury 220 room hotel, built by Italians in conjunction with the Cook Islands government.. Unfortunately, when building was about 80% completed, there was a huge bust of the Mafia in Italy, which it transpired were supplying the funding for the hotel, and the project ground to a standstill.


One day Paul and Karen did a tour at Matutu Brewery, a locally owned micro-brewery, which they found interesting. They were happy to sample some of the fine products on the way around, and pronounced it very good beer. We then had lunch at the Hidden Spirit café nearby which was surrounded by extensive gardens filled with tropical flowers, plants and palms - truly beautiful.
Mairenui Botanical Gardens

Ian and Clare
Island Groove duo. Drink is apple juice!


We met up with Ian and Clare Wheldon at The Café in Avarua, friends of Wally Duff, who is in the Nelson Male Voice Choir with Paul. They suggested that we go to Happy Hour at the Palm Grove bar and bistro on the south coast. The popular Island Groove duo were playing and singing to an appreciative crowd.


View from balcony - Pat in new sarong
Blair,, beach, lagoon and reef
We shifted from our holiday house to Edgewater Resort for our last two days, as Karen wanted to experience it as a possible accommodation option for her clients. We were given an upgrade to a lovely beachfront apartment. Saw a couple getting married on the beach just in front of it on Saturday afternoon! You can see the view from the deck in this photo Karen took of me wearing my new sarong.

On the Saturday evening we went to an island night at the resort. Started with an extensive Polynesian buffet, including delicious ika mata- raw fish marinated in lime juice mixed with coconut cream etc, and rukau -taro leaves cooked and mixed with coconut sauce and onion, that looks and tastes not unlike spinach.

Beautiful dancing - even the little ones

An impressive array of drums




This was followed by a lively cultural performance - stunning drummers, talented singers, and amazing dancers.
Wonderful to watch and listen to.
Those swinging hips!








Hope that you have enjoyed reading this account, and seeing our photos, of a lovely South Pacific island, on which we had a most enjoyable nine days.



KIA MANUIA!!
(Good luck / cheers)