Leon 26 -28 May

Leon (population 130,000)  Saturday 26 May to Monday 28 May

Had a 7 hr train journey on Saturday at speeds up to 160kph from Barcelona to Leon. I booked it a couple of months ago and opted for a first class carriage for only an extra 10 Euro. Comfortable seat and I kept myself occupied writing notes on my Barcelona stay.

Hillside village and quarry

Interesting to view the Spanish scenery. Very green pastures and spring crops. Didn't pass as many towns and villages as I had expected we would.
Did see some quaint ones perched on hillsides. Two with huge quarries behind them, which no doubt provide the livelihood. Saw several huge industrial complexes adjacent to the railway lines. One was a VW factory. There were hundreds of new vehicles on transporters or in adjacent yards waiting to go to their new owners.

The Meseta, and Camino track

Approaching Leon, the train crosses the Meseta, the name given to the large and expansive flat plains of central Spain. Beginning just after Burgos, and ending in Astorga, the Camino Frances travels through the northern point of the meseta for approximately 220km. As it was spring, there were many fields of growing crops.


On arrival in Leon checked in to my hotel, which was in a pedestrian precinct in the older part of the city.

Saturday night was party night! Numerous groups of young women on Hen Party nights, with the bride to be adorned in a veil, also many groups of young men. As there was a big football match on, lots were wearing their favourite team's colours as they supported the local bars and cafes. The area is nicknamed Barrio Humedo (wet quarter as in alcohol)! Numerous armed police around, but I didn't see any obvious drunkeness or bad behaviour. Had a delicious dinner in a local cafe. Hardly anyone there when I arrived at 8 pm, but really humming by 9 pm, Everyone was given a delicious appetiser with their first drink. Many of the Spanish businesses are closed for siestas for three hours in the afternoon, then the usual dinner hours are from 9pm until midnight. Fortunately they have worked out that the peregrinos (pilgrims) need to be fed earlier, for several reasons - they are hungry after walking for 5 to 8 hours; they need to be in bed by 9 or 10pm in preparation for the next day; and most of them come from cultures which have dinner early evening.

Magnificent Leon Cathedral

                                                                               











Sunday morning I went to 9am Mass at the nearby Leon Cathedral, which is stunning with stained glass windows of 1800 square metres glowing with the sun shining through them. It was built between 1205 and 1301 in the Gothic style, which was usually quite gloomy inside, so it was quite a break from tradition. The cathedral was packed, and the congregation were in full voice to the accompaniment of the magnificent organ.

Afterwards In the plaza adjacent to the cathedral there was an event going on in which probably 100 chefs were carving legs of cured pork in an attempt to get it recorded in the Guiness Book of Records.

Then there were speeches, a big net full of balloons were released, and platters of the meat were handed around to the watching crowd. I appreciated getting a taste - it was delicious and I had seen it in the delicatessan at a Barcelona supermarket for €129 Kilo (about NZ $218!!)

Casa de Botines Palace - another Gaudi design

Quiet spot in plaza for reading!

I spent the rest of the day sightseeing. At about 3pm I was in my room and looked at the weather forecast to see what to expect on the Camino. threatened rain on the next three days wasn't what I wanted! At the time I was about to walk about 3 Km to a shopping centre. It was a sunny day with clear blue skies at the time I was looking, so I was surprised when the forecast said it was expecting rain in 73 minutes. Yeah, right, I thought, but took the precaution of taking my umbrella. Sure enough, 55 minutes later it came bucketing down for about ten minutes, then stopped.

Relaxing spa

After I arrived back at the hotel, I enjoyed a swim in the pool, and a relaxing soak in the spa pool.

Dinner that evening was different but delicious. I had asked for a pork dish with roast vegetables. When it arrived, the pork was artfully arranged on a slice of toast, but I couldn't see the roast veges. They were hidden under the pork -eggplant, capsicum and zucchini. Delicious, as was the rare pork.

Looking forward to my first day on the Camino tomorrow.

Day 1 Camino de Santiago - May / June 2018

Day 1 Leon to Villavante - Monday 28 May - 33km. 

A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. Lao Tzu.

I've decided to put a quote at the top of each of the day's  accounts of my pilgrimage. Thought today's appropriate as I start on this journey of 325 Km.  Alisa's niece Leila and nephews Oscar and Jake worked out that it is the equivalent of going from Perth to Augusta, which sounds rather daunting!

Ready to go

Breakfast at the hotel this morning was fresh orange juice, muesli and yoghurt, the biggest best croissant I have ever eaten, with butter and marmalade; and a cafe con leche (good latte). I have brought my muesli from NZ, which I am pleased about, as there weren't any cereals on offer. Yoghurt and a banana were given to me to go with it when I asked for them.

Basilica of  San Isidora de Leon

Then it was pack on and out the door to start my Camino!

I walked my first day on the Spanish Camino de Santiago today from Leon to Villavante.  For my birthday our family had given me, among other things, "a Pilgrim's Guide to The Camino de Santiago (the Camino Frances)" by John Brierley. A wonderfully informative little resource, it gives a detailed map of each day's walk, a diagram of the route showing elevations, features to look out for on the way, and the author's personal reflections. This particular way is one of the oldest, having been traversed by pilgrims for 1100 years from St Jean Pied de Port in the very south of France. There is a steep ascent to start with over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles in north-eastern Spain, and the Camino then goes in a westerly direction to Santiago de Compostela - a distance of 800Km.It is traditional for pilgrims to have a scallop shell

Bernesga River

It is traditional for pilgrims to have a scallop shell tied to their backpacks to identify them as they walk on the Camino. I put stickers of the NZ flag and a little kiwi on mine.
We all carry a "Credential de Santiago" - Pilgrim's Passport - and get it stamped as we go along at churches, our accommodation etc.
My first stamp is from the Leon Cathedral, so an auspicious start.

16th century stone Puente rio Bernesga

I had booked with an Irish company, Camino Ways, who had suggested the best routes to take; pre-booked my accommodation, which included breakfast every day and dinner in all but three of the larger towns; and one of the best things was that they arranged to have my bag picked up every morning and delivered to my next destination. So all I had to carry was a day pack.

Beautiful city gardens

The main route from Leon first wound its way through the old part of the city and its historic buildings, lovely parks and river for about thirty minutes. Then about an hour walking through suburbia to the edge of town.

Hobbit houses!

An interesting sight on leaving Leon was several what looked like Hobbit houses set in to the hillside, which had apparently been used in the past for keeping food and wine cool.

Bodegas -used as storage units for food and wine pre-fridges

Looking back over Leon

Also had a great vista looking back
over Leon.

Welcome grassy track, all to myself!

The main trail from there ran adjacent to the highway for the next two days, which wasn't what I would have wanted. Camino Ways suggested an alternative scenic route through the countryside away from traffic to Mazarife, a small village.

Spring crops poking up among the stones

New crops growing beside the track
were thriving in very stony soil.

Met and walked with some interesting people along The Way -Masana and Loriana, a couple from northern Italy who had started in Bruge; a couple, David and Sandy, from Louisville, Kentucky. Sandy was limping and had a knee support on. Said that the knee wasn't a new injury, but one she just lived with. Dan, recently retired from Boeing, and his mid-20s daughter Emily from southern California, Emily had recently graduated with a health sciences degree, and was planning to do a post- graduate opthalmology Masters.

Scallop shells & yellow arrows show The Way

Lunch stop with Dan and Emily

The forecaster had threatened that there would be rain all day, but fortunately the weather gods didn't listen to him, and conditions were perfect -overcast and calm and about 16C. Dan and his daughter stopped for a lunch break with me. They had started at St John Pied de Port so had already covered about 500 Km. Dan took off his boots and socks after lunch to reveal some quite nasty blisters on his toes, which he retaped. Sincerely hope I avoid those. Am wearing two layer Wrightsocks which Desiree recommended. They came with a promise of no blisters, so hope they live up to it.

The plan was to waIk 23 Km to Mazarife, but accommodation was fully booked there, and my reservation was for a place 10Km further on, so as the weather was still good,  and I was feeling good, I decided to keep going. I could have been picked up in Mazarife, and taken back there to resume in the morning, but thought I would kick myself in the morning if it was raining. So I walked 33km and did have some showers for the last hour, but my umbrella and jacket kept me mainly dry. The last 10km from Mazarife was flat going, on an asphalt road at first which looked to stretch to eternity!

There was no-one else walking, and only a few cars passing, some of the drivers tooting and waving. To keep myself amused, I sang while I walked along. During The Wheels on the Bus and Old Mc Donald I could visualise adorable Olivia watching me with her big bright brown eyes, moving her head and feet to the beat as she listened. When I eventually reached an intersection at the end of the asphalt, i looked back to see a sign saying it was 4 Km back to Mazarife. No way, it was at least 6 Km.  When I arrived at my destination I was surprised to find the my R) calf was quite tight. Probably because it had been flat walking and hadn't been stretched at all in those last 10 Km.

With Mercedes by a roaring fire

Staying tonight in a lovely country home. Mercedes, the owner, and her husband Marcel, are absolutely delightful. On a shelf above the fire is a row of clogs, which Mercedes said are ideal over shoes on wet ground
when they go outside.

Breakfast with Fiona, Francoise, & Antonio,

I had a hot shower, massaged my calf, and did some stretches, and it feels OK now. 
There are five other pilgrims staying - 3 Aussies, Fiona & Francoise from Melbourne and Antonio from Adelaide; and two Dutch women, Joss and Mary Jo. Mercedes has just cooked us a delicious dinner. Conversation during it was interesting, as four of the others had started at St Jean Pied de Port, and had stories to tell.

My bed looks very comfortable and inviting. You will see that it has a wide pillow with a single pillow case. In Spain, this is the case no matter how wide the bed. A king size bed has a very long pillow. Interesting.

Pouring with rain now so hope it stops by morning. So only 21 Kms to Astorga tomorrow.
And at the bottom of the pages, I am going to note something I am grateful for.

Today's is:

Having the good health, and being fit enough, to come on this pilgrimage.

I was really happy to achieve 33 Kms on my first day

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Day 2 Villavente to Astorga

Villavente to Astorga (Pop 12,000) - Tuesday 29 May - 23 Kms

"Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it". Goethe

Puente de Orbigo, leading in to town of Hospital de Orbigo

Good day today. The forecast on Sunday predicted 3 days of rain, but yesterday was great apart from a few showers during the last hour. It poured overnight, but by the time I headed off at 9am today I only needed my jacket on with hood up. It was what the Scots describe as mizzle - halfway between a mist and a drizzle.

Spring crops

Cairn near top of hill

At various points along The Way are impromptu cairns - piles of stones, sometimes with crosses, sometimes on top of the way markers.


I walked for a while with Ricky, from Denmark, who had recently graduated with a Master of Educational Science and had decided to have a month off by walking the full Camino before she starts looking for work. Also Dirk from North Carolina, who also started at St Jean Pied de Port.
High on the track before reaching the stone cross a man called David has a stall where he
greets passing pilgrims with a big smile. He has for sale oranges, apples, bananas, nuts, drinks. He has been living at the snack stand and providing food and drinks for pilgrims for nine years now.

David's Le Casa de los Dioses

Beside a thirsty pilgrim of long ago

Cruceiro Santo Toribio

Walking through undulating countryside with lush crops stopped for lunch beside a stone cross at the top of a hill. It's name is Cruceiro Santo Toribio and it commemorates the 5th century Bishop Toribio of Astorga who supposedly fell to his knees here in a final farewell having been banished from the town. There were great views of Astorga looking quite far away on the plain in the distance.

A lovely Brazilian couple, Gilda and Josef, joined me and as we were sitting there enjoying the view and sun's warmth, a group of about 8 young people stopped beside us. One of them said to the others "Look at those 3 crosses on the hill beyond Astorga". to which one of the girls replied "Josh, you see God in everything, and that isn't a bad thing, but I have to disillusion you this time, because those are power poles"!

Old building possibly still used as a livestock barn

As I left the Brazilian couple, Josef kindly gave me a piece of milk chocolate (I had shared my orange with them). I fell in to step with an English lady walking past, who, when she saw the chocolate said that it was a good idea, and she would stop to get some out of her pack. I asked whether she would like me to wait to walk on with her. "No thanks" she said "I prefer walking by myself"'. No offence taken, I set off downhill by myself. Further on that lady caught up with me. "I need to apologise to you" she said. "It was very kind of you to offer to wait and walk with me. I shouldn't have been so short with you." That was gracious of her. Good walking from then on. By early afternoon the sun was shining, and it was a good afternoon for sightseeing in Astorga.

Astorga was a lovely town with some interesting historical buildings. The 15th century Gothic Cathedral is a wonderful blend of Romanesque, Gothic and later styles of architecture. It has a Renaissance altarpiece with a statue of the Virgen de la Majestad (Virgin of Majesty), to whom the cathedral is dedicated.

Many tableaus surround main doors

             Astorga Cathedral

Original Roman stone wall behind Cathedral

                                                          Palicio Episcopal

Across the Plaza Catedral is a sensational Gaudi building known as the Bishop's Palace (Palicio Episcopal). It no longer houses any bishops but is a museum - Museo de los Caminos. It holds historical notes and artefacts on the many Roman roads that converged on this city and provided the main trade, military and pilgrim routes through northern Spain. 

I was so pleased that I had done that extra 10kms yesterday as it gave me a head start, shorter distance and earlier arrival today in this lovely town- well a half marathon as compared to yesterday's three quarters of one! Although my legs were tired when I reached Astorga I had no tight calves.

My hotel room has a fully equipped bathroom (including bidet) so I really enjoyed soaking in a deep bath for 30mins.

Am turning in soon as I am quite tired. There is a noisy thunderstorm happening just now, so if it is going to rain hope it does so overnight again.

Today's gratitude item:

My wonderful family, whose encouragement and support helped me to come on this pilgrimage.

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Day 3 Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

Astorga to Rabanal (population 50) - 30 May - 21Km.

"Every day is a journey, and the road itself is Home"

Today went well. Once again the weather forecasters got it wrong, to my relief. Was supposed to be raining all day, but I think all the rain was dumped during last evening's thunderstorm, so there was none left for today! Very pleasant walking conditions - overcast with the sun peeping through occasionally. The track gently climbed, gaining 250metres altitude between Astorga and Rabanal. Around midday a cool breeze came up but I just needed to put another layer on and was fine.

Cows passing us returning from milking

A camouflaged little snail making his way

Country walking past crops with views of distant hills and some mountains in the distance with remnants of snow. Creatures, great and small, as in photos above.

There were many pretty wildflowers growing on the verges along The Way, so this afternoon I photographed some of them. The red poppy is my favourite.

 

 

Via Crucis

On a wire fence to the right of the path just before Rabanal is a self-styled Via Crucis (Way of the Cross) where passing pilgrims have fashioned their own crosses from fallen twigs and branches and woven a cross on to the fence. There are dozens of them, as you see from this photo. At one part the path takes a loop away from the fence, so that is where I chose to put mine.

Five young women from the University of Minnesota

walked and chatted with me for a while this afternoon.

They were with a group of 16 Art History undergraduates

- 19 & 20 year olds. Their professor organizes, books and

guides them on the Camino, arranging for local experts to 

give presentations at various points of interest along the way. 

The students themselves also have to research a subject before

they come on the Camino, and give a Power Point presentation

to their fellow students.

Benedictine Monastery

Parish Church and bell tower

Arrived in Rabanal del Camino at 2pm. A lovely small village of stone buildings strung along the main street. The Romanesque parish church takes up the tiny central plaza. Beside it is a popular albergue, run by the London based Confraternity of St James and the Bierzo Association. Parishioners take turns for two weeks volunteering to run it.
A lively Happy Hour was happening late afternoon with about 20 pilgrims relaxing around a big outside table.
I was having a wine in the lounge area of our hotel late afternoon with an older couple, Andre and Helene. They were from Normandy, France and we were managing a conversation with their limited English and my schoolgirl French. It was helped greatly when their friend Jerome joined us. He had lived in Canada for some time, and his English was good. Brenda also joined the group. I had met her on my first morning in Leon, at breakfast. A couple of days later in Astorga she was in the dining room reading on her Kindle when I went in. When I asked whether she would like company, she replied that she would prefer not, thank you! But today she did, and joined us.

Went to Vespers at the Benedictine Monastery at 7pm. All sung in Latin, which I am much more familiar with than Spanish!
Then had dinner with a couple from Denmark, Heinrich & Anja  and a retired vet, Bob, from Florida. Interesting dinner companions. Bob was staying in the hostels (albergues) along the way. He said that having some hearing loss combined with ear plugs managed to block out most of the snoring! All three were concerned about the "big" day tomorrow when we reach the highest point on the whole 800Km Camino Frances of 1,515m. What they are overlooking (they all come from flat places) is that we came from Astorga at 900m above sea level today to Rabanal at 1,150m - an ascent of 250m, which wasn't a problem. So we aren't doing much more than that tomorrow, ascending another 365m.

It is another long day for me, at about 31km, but I'm up for it.

Gratitude item:
God's garden- the beautiful wild flowers which are on the verges of the walkway. Special to be here in spring when they are all in flower.
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