Day 2 Villavente to Astorga

Villavente to Astorga (Pop 12,000) - Tuesday 29 May - 23 Kms

"Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it". Goethe

Puente de Orbigo, leading in to town of Hospital de Orbigo

Good day today. The forecast on Sunday predicted 3 days of rain, but yesterday was great apart from a few showers during the last hour. It poured overnight, but by the time I headed off at 9am today I only needed my jacket on with hood up. It was what the Scots describe as mizzle - halfway between a mist and a drizzle.

Spring crops

Cairn near top of hill

At various points along The Way are impromptu cairns - piles of stones, sometimes with crosses, sometimes on top of the way markers.


I walked for a while with Ricky, from Denmark, who had recently graduated with a Master of Educational Science and had decided to have a month off by walking the full Camino before she starts looking for work. Also Dirk from North Carolina, who also started at St Jean Pied de Port.
High on the track before reaching the stone cross a man called David has a stall where he
greets passing pilgrims with a big smile. He has for sale oranges, apples, bananas, nuts, drinks. He has been living at the snack stand and providing food and drinks for pilgrims for nine years now.

David's Le Casa de los Dioses

Beside a thirsty pilgrim of long ago

Cruceiro Santo Toribio

Walking through undulating countryside with lush crops stopped for lunch beside a stone cross at the top of a hill. It's name is Cruceiro Santo Toribio and it commemorates the 5th century Bishop Toribio of Astorga who supposedly fell to his knees here in a final farewell having been banished from the town. There were great views of Astorga looking quite far away on the plain in the distance.

A lovely Brazilian couple, Gilda and Josef, joined me and as we were sitting there enjoying the view and sun's warmth, a group of about 8 young people stopped beside us. One of them said to the others "Look at those 3 crosses on the hill beyond Astorga". to which one of the girls replied "Josh, you see God in everything, and that isn't a bad thing, but I have to disillusion you this time, because those are power poles"!

Old building possibly still used as a livestock barn

As I left the Brazilian couple, Josef kindly gave me a piece of milk chocolate (I had shared my orange with them). I fell in to step with an English lady walking past, who, when she saw the chocolate said that it was a good idea, and she would stop to get some out of her pack. I asked whether she would like me to wait to walk on with her. "No thanks" she said "I prefer walking by myself"'. No offence taken, I set off downhill by myself. Further on that lady caught up with me. "I need to apologise to you" she said. "It was very kind of you to offer to wait and walk with me. I shouldn't have been so short with you." That was gracious of her. Good walking from then on. By early afternoon the sun was shining, and it was a good afternoon for sightseeing in Astorga.

Astorga was a lovely town with some interesting historical buildings. The 15th century Gothic Cathedral is a wonderful blend of Romanesque, Gothic and later styles of architecture. It has a Renaissance altarpiece with a statue of the Virgen de la Majestad (Virgin of Majesty), to whom the cathedral is dedicated.

Many tableaus surround main doors

             Astorga Cathedral

Original Roman stone wall behind Cathedral

                                                          Palicio Episcopal

Across the Plaza Catedral is a sensational Gaudi building known as the Bishop's Palace (Palicio Episcopal). It no longer houses any bishops but is a museum - Museo de los Caminos. It holds historical notes and artefacts on the many Roman roads that converged on this city and provided the main trade, military and pilgrim routes through northern Spain. 

I was so pleased that I had done that extra 10kms yesterday as it gave me a head start, shorter distance and earlier arrival today in this lovely town- well a half marathon as compared to yesterday's three quarters of one! Although my legs were tired when I reached Astorga I had no tight calves.

My hotel room has a fully equipped bathroom (including bidet) so I really enjoyed soaking in a deep bath for 30mins.

Am turning in soon as I am quite tired. There is a noisy thunderstorm happening just now, so if it is going to rain hope it does so overnight again.

Today's gratitude item:

My wonderful family, whose encouragement and support helped me to come on this pilgrimage.

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