Day 15 Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela

Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela - Monday 11 June - 20Kms

"I don't know your destiny, but one thing I know; the only ones among you who will be truly happy are those who have found how to serve"  Albert Schweitzer

Well, the day didn't start out the best. Looked out my window at 5.45am to see thick wet looking mist blanketing the trees. Wasn't jumping out of my skin knowing I would be pushed to do about 20 Kms before midday, when the itinerary had said we would be starting further ahead and doing 14!

So went to breakfast at the cafe next door right on 6am when we were told it would open. The waitress / chef had got out of the wrong side of her bed and wasn't in a happy frame of mind. I knew before I left NZ that breakfasts would be light, so had brought a large packet of my own muesli with me. Was very pleased I had, as have only seen it on one breakfast buffet. Up to now I have been willingly given yoghurt and a banana or kiwi fruit to go with it. When I asked this morning you would have thought I had asked her for something complicated like a spit roast pig. No, she couldn't give me either yoghurt or fruit. The usual breakfast has been either toast or croissants, accompanied by a cafe con leche (like a latte). Not a lot of fuel to do a long walk on. 

To my astonishment she then asked whether I would like croissants, or bacon, eggs and toast. Wow! The cooked breakfast, thanks very much, I said. Five minutes later it was presented to me, perfectly cooked. So she redeemed herself a little. 

The mist wasn't wet, and walking conditions were good, although the distant views were obscured. Yesterday The Way was often alongside busy roads, and traffic whizzing past didn't have any appeal when compared with birds singing in the woodlands.

The final uphill

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I didn't expect today to be as scenic as it was with rolling farmlands again, and numerous tracks through woodlands. Slopes were t gentler than usual. Not so much chatting today.

Heading through final village

Pilgims were often walking solo, and I think in contemplative, introspective moods. The ones who started in the south of France at St Jean Pied de Port have been on this journey for 33 days at the least.
                                                             

Stunning sculpture on hill overlooking Santiago

      My first view of Cathedral spire            

Thought the rain was going to give us a break on this last day,  but no. Santiago is huge and the rain started at 11 am just as I was walking through the suburbs in to the city centre. I had left Pedrouzo just before 7am and by walking at a reasonable pace, arrived at the Cathedral at 11.30am, in time for the midday Pilgrims' Mass. It seemed the right thing to do to go to it just when I arrived, rather than on another day.

I've completed my Camino

Northern facade of Cathedral

St James presiding

         

Crowded Santiago Cathedral for midday Pilgrims' Mass

                   

Magnificent pipe organ

Lavish main altar

The cathedral was packed, with not a spare seat, but I was able to get a good vantage point not far back from the main altar. Before Mass started one of the nuns had the congregation practising some responses and hymns. She made a quip in Spanish which the man beside me interpreted for me "She told us to stop mumbling and raise our voices to The Lord". Her voice was pure and beautiful. I had tears in my eyes listening to her during the Mass.

Five priests concelebrated, and although it was mainly in Spanish, some English translations were given. Very special. 

I shall tell you more about the cathedral and Santiago in another email. I am here for three days. Tomorrow I am having a break from walking by going on an all day bus tour to Finisterre and Muxia, on Spain's west coast.

Today's Gratitude Item:
That I was able to reach my goal of walking every step of this Camino Pilgrimage, in good health and with no injuries. I am better for the experience - spiritually, physically and mentally.
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