Day 11 Sarria to Portomarin

Sarria to Portomarin - Thursday 7 June - 23 Km

"I am not a human being on a spiritual journey. I am a spiritual being on a human journey" Spiritual maxim

Tina and Tony at Santa Marina church

Simple sacristy with beautiful floral arrangements

Well worn flights of stone steps

Yesterday was a good day to be staying in Sarria and not walking far. Rained all day. I enjoyed exploring the historic precinct, and went to a lovely Pilgrims' mass in Santa Marina church. Met the Canadian couple, Tina and Tony again and enjoyed having a catch up with them.

Interesting trees in plaza beside church

Cafes ready for diners

Historical buildings in Sarria

Looking over "new" part of town - 100s of years old

Slept well last night, and was pleased to see that it wasn't raining when I woke this morning. Was chatting with the lovely Canadian Tina as we walked up through the historic part of Sarria, and we had gone about 50metres past the top church when an elderly Spanish gentleman walking towards us said "Peregrinos? Buenos dias."  "Buenos dias. Si", we replied. At which he pointed back at an intersection which we had walked past and there was a yellow arrow showing us that we had missed our turn. "Gracias" we thanked him as we turned around. At which he gave a big smile, reached in to his jacket pocket and pulled out two perfect red rose buds, presenting one to each of us. "Buen Camino" he wished us. What a lovely gesture at the start of our day.

Many pilgrims on the journey this morning, as many start in Sarria, which is 117Km from Santiago. To qualify for a Compostela certificate, walkers must cover a minimum of 100Km, and bikers 200Km. 

Lovely rural landscape among rolling hills. The lane was flanked by some very old moss and ivy covered stone walls, and several times went through woodlands with older, bigger trees than on Tuesday. Several small, very old quaint villages.

Stone wall host to great variety of vegetation

Tired gate 

Another fascinating old tree beside track

Stone wall supporting hedge and flowers

Rain held off until10am, and then set in for a couple of hours. Had to be particularly careful on some very wet muddy downhill sections of track. That is when the hiking poles come in to their own. The rain obscured our distant hill views, but eased off again at midday. I stopped at a hilltop cafe at 11am for a warming refreshing bowl of hot chocolate. Yum.

Country church and cemetery

Cemeteries are interesting, as you see in this photo. Instead of going underground they are stacked up to five high. Ladders are usually available to leave flowers at the doors of your ancestors, if they are on one of the upper levels.

Giant rock steps on hill before Portomarin

Had good views of Portomarin as we approached it for about five Kms. On the hill directly across the river from the town was a giants' staircase - huge rocks which needed to be carefully navigated down to the road. Stopped to take a photo and was amazed to see two cyclists appear at the top with their bikes. Had no idea how they were going to manoeuvre them down, and didn't stay to find out! I think they would have had to backtrack a couple of kilometres to the road.

Moira and Carol on bridge leading in to Portomarin

Several flights of steps to enter Portomarin

Walked the last part of the track in to Portomarin with Carol, from Tauranga, and Moira from Victoria, Vancouver Island. Carol was amazing. Had started at St Jean in southern France, and had restricted her luggage to a mere 4.5Kg. At home she is a real estate agent and she commented that this journey had reinforced to her how relationships and love were the things that really mattered, and not material possessions. Moira was finding the walk hard going.
Coincidentally I bumped in to her this evening, and we had an enjoyable dinner and conversation together. The town is small and lovely.

Central square Praza Conde do Concello

My hotel with stoned collonades in the cobbled main street

Romanesque fortress church of St John

Tomorrow I go on to Palas de Rei over hilly countryside. Hoping for a fine day.

Today's Gratitude Item:

Being a pilgrim on this journey. The pilgrim must travel on two paths simultaneously, The tourist in him/her will look for the stone altar - the pilgrim an altered state. The one seeks sacred sites; the other insight. My hope is to find both.

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