"We are pilgrims on a journey. we are brothers on the road. We are here to help each other, walk the mile and bear the load." The Servant Song
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| Full wet weather gear needed at start of day |
It is amazing what a restorative good night's sleep can do to restore body and mind.
Last evening at the Pilgrim Mass I was thinking how blessed I was to have enjoyed mainly fine weather for the first half of my Camino Journey, and I gave thanks for that.
However when I opened the blinds and windows this morning, I was reminded that I am now in the Galicia area of Spain, where were warned to be prepared for any weather, as it can be very unpredictable. A light steady rain was falling. Put on good English all encompassing poncho for the first time, and set off at 8am. We were so fortunate to have such panoramic views on the way up the mountain yesterday, because early on this morning could barely see ten metres.
However, by mid morning the rain started to clear, and the veil of mist and cloud lifted to reveal a panoramic view of fields and hills.
I walked for a while with Kerri(73) and John(81), formerly of South Africa, but now resident in the USA. Kerri had walked the Camino by herself 17 yrs ago. They had an unfortunate start to their Camino when Iberian Airlines misplaced their luggage for 6 days before they could eventually start.
Some funny things happen, which we would never see in NZ. As I was walking through one of the small villages, Lunares, this morning, a barn door opened on the lower storey of one of the houses ahead of me.
A frisky horse burst out, hotly pursued by a small man desperately holding on to its lead, and then a dog yapping uselessly around. Fortunately the man had the horse under control within a few metres. Several sheep wandered out and along the lane as well.
And just to add to the general mayhem, the Señora joined from the next lane, herding several cows. By great good luck, I had just taken a photo of a tiny church,so had the camera in my hand, and recorded the event. So to add to potential hazards of slippery stones and muddy puddles on the track and lanes, we are now adding sloppy cow pats and large dollops of horse poo. Keeps one on ones toes, and watching every footfall!
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| Farmer now has horse under control! |
A frisky horse burst out, hotly pursued by a small man desperately holding on to its lead, and then a dog yapping uselessly around. Fortunately the man had the horse under control within a few metres. Several sheep wandered out and along the lane as well.
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| Senora and cows join in the general chaos Sheep decide they've had enough, and start heading back! |
After a few Kms the rain lightened and mist cleared to allow views of the lush countryside. I was quite hot so removed the poncho, and just needed my rain jacket and umbrella for the showers. At one stage noticed a couple ahead of me edging around some large muddy puddles on the track. The road ran adjacent to it there, so I stepped up on to it for the next 100metres. When rejoining the track I slipped on some wet grass, and went down on my back, which was fortunately cushioned by my daypack. The only injuries were to my dignity, and the umbrella, which sustained three broken spokes. Lyn and Martin gave me a hand to my feet and checked that I wasn't injured before we all walked on. They were from San Diego. The remaining 5 spokes on my umbrella gave me enough cover for the rest of today's walk, as there wasn't any wind, but I shall have to get a replacement. I really don't like getting a wet face when walking, and prefer an umbrella. Some people are walking with caps on under their poncho hoods.
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| Alto do Polo |
At the top of the hill, Alto do Polo, which was 10km beyond O'Cebreiro, and 130metres higher, was a figure shrouded in mist, bending in to the wind. This bronze statue was erected as a monument to the thousands of pilgrims who pass this spot. There was nobody else to be seen when I reached there, and I was disappointed as I really wanted a photo to show the scale of this wonderful sculpture. Then out of the mist rode a lone cyclist, so we took each others photos.
Rain came and went for the remainder of today's walk. At times I was walking on the track under pretty trees, very like our beeches.
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| 800 yr old tree at approach to Triacastela |
The last part of the country lane on this ancient camino is worn down with the feet of countless pilgrims and local livestock, and walled in with granite stone fences. Old oak and chestnut trees line the track.
Approaching Triacastela I was walking with a couple from Florida, Jillian and Bob. We stopped beside a knarled 800 year old tree at the entrance to the village to use our imaginations conjuring up animal and human shapes and taking photos.
Triacastela is so named because it used to have three castles, none of which survive. it was an important stop for medieval pilgrims coming down off the mountain, and had several hospices and an extensive monastery. The parish church is dedicated to Santiago ( St James) - statue above in 18th century tower. The weather worn three relief panels carved beneath him on the tower show the now extinct three castles.
My room at the hotel is comfortable, and has views of the surrounding tree covered hills, which look fresh and green after the rain.
Today's Gratitude Item:
Camino Ways in Dublin, who arranged my accommodation and luggage transfers along The Way. It has been good to have breakfast included at all places, and dinners at all but the three big towns. They have thought outside the square and made good recommendations on the best routes to walk.------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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