Day 5 Ponferrada and Templars Castle

Ponferrada (Population 69,000)

"Yesterday is history; tomorrow a mystery; and today a gift. That is why it is called the present" Bil Keane

Another version is "Yesterday is relative, tomorrow is speculative, but today is electric. That's why it's called current" Travis Dultz

Well, even though I organised it back in January when I was planning this trip, today was the very best day not to be walking, and have a rest day. I told you that the previous day had been tough, and that was without rain. Factor in steady rain and cold conditions, and there were a lot of miserable, wet, cold pilgrims who arrived in Ponferrada late afternoon.  One of them told me that there was no chatting. Everyone was having to concentrate on every footfall on stony slopes to stay safe, and not slip. So I was very happy not to be part of that. 

Ponferrada (from the Latin Pons Ferrata, Iron Bridge) is the capital city in the Province of Leon, Spain. The Sil River runs through it and it is completely surrounded by mountains. It is the last major town on the French route of the Camino de Santiago before it reaches Santiago de Compostela.  

I enjoyed my tour of the Templars Castle. An astonishing 8,000 square metre fort built in the 12th century. The castle is enormous in size and the architecture is stunning. It was designed in a polygonal shape, with double and triple defences, making it an absolute fortress. During the medieval period Spanish Knights roamed the outskirts of the structure, protecting the town, and defended it from within its walls and battlements.

The Templars Castle was constructed by Ferdinand II in 1178 AD to protect pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago. The castle was named after the famed Knights of Templar who protected the town in the 12th century.The Knights were a fearsome unit, and one of the most skilled during the crusades. Having changed ownership a number of times, the castle is now owned by the King of Spain.

Entrance walkway

These photos will give you an idea of the scale of the castle. I was delighted to see Francoise and Fiona there - I had met them when I stayed at Villavente after my first day walking.

Walls viewed from interior 

Francoise and Fiona in wet weather gear

Looking down from top of tower

Scale model of original buildings inside courtyard

When I walked through the outside gates, I was surprised to find a large open area. I had expected to be going in to a large entrance lobby with banquet rooms etc. The model to the left shows what the buildings inside the castle looked like originally. 

The modern buildings there now house a museum and the Templars library which is home to over 1,400 books. There was an exhibition of beautifully illustrated bibles from museums all over the world.This National Historical Artistic Monument boasts work from Leonardo da Vinci among its impressive collection.

Illuminated Bibles

Knights setting off for the Crusades

                           

These are two of the first books in which reference is
made to Camino pilgrims and the duty of the Knights
and townspeople to host and protect them.
 

                               

Cold stone benches 

These photos were taken from the top of one of the castle's towers, looking over the town of Ponferrada.

I had lunch at a lovely warm little cafe with some superb paintings on the walls. My soup came in a tureen, and gave me four scrummy platefuls. When I had finished the delightful waitress took me around to the other side to show me a wall dedicated to pilgrims - there were numerous scallop shells with names and messages on them. Quite special.

Delectable icecream

Brenda was staying at the same hotel, and asked whether I would like to go out to dinner with her. We found a restaurant with a delightful maitre'd and had a delicious dinner. Afterwards we went to an icecream parlour which she had found. So many choices, as you see in this photo. I had the best salted caramel icecream ever.

Rain didn't stop all day. So fortunate that this was a day that I wasn't walking on The Way..
23 Km tomorrow to Villafranca del Bierzo. Hope that the rain has stopped by morning.

Today's Gratitude Item:

The workmanship of those long ago craftsmen who erected all the beautiful stone houses, churches, public buildings, farm walls, and castles, many of which are still as strong now hundreds of years later as when they were built .

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