Day 7 Villafranca del Bierzo to O'Cebreiro

Villafranca del Bierzo to O'Cebreiro( Population 50) - Sunday 3 June - 30Km

"When you get to the top of the mountain, and you see the valley below, you realise how small you are and how you're a part of the whole, and the communiion is so intense, you will never be the same again." 

Well this was a big day. The last of my three 30Km plus ones. Left Villafranca del Bierzo at 8.30am, and finally arrived at O'Cebreiro at 5.30pm, having ascended from 500metres above sea level to 1300metres. From Villafranca the track rose very gradually for 22Km to 705m at Herrerias. In overcast weather to start with, it ran alongside a country road wending its way around hills. It was our good fortune that there was no motorised traffic from 9am on, as a big triathlon centred at Villafranca, did their first stage of a bike ride 20km up that road and back again. The leader was blitzing it - he was 5 mins ahead of the next competitor, going up, and even more on his way back. There were over three hundred in it. 

Expansive vegetable garden beside river

Road & track wind around hills

The price of progress - concrete motorway

Today I walked for a while with Liz from Maine. She has been to NZ several times as her twin sister lives in Auckland. Liz, like me, is on her own on the Camino, so it was interesting to compare our experiences.

Soaring motorway makes ugly entrance to village

However, we didn't escape noise altogether, as there was a big ugly freeway, often on tall concrete supports, taking the traffic up the valley, criss-crossing the river. One of the little villages had drawn the short straw, with these ugly things at the entrance to the village. That village had a few interesting things going on. Church bells started pealing at 10.50am, which was an odd time. I wondered whether it was to give the locals a jog that Mass (or some service) was due to start in 10 minutes!

Rio Pereje

Donkeys grazing

The river which The Way followed right up the valley was beautiful and flanked by mature trees. Sometimes flowing quietly, at others rushing over weirs or large stones. Clear water over a stony base, like our rivers.

First sheep I had seen- only about 20 of them

Along a couple of blocks one of the oldtimers was sitting in his doorway playing a piano accordion very well. The on the far side of town, some of the cows had bells around their necks, which were creating their own tune. In the paddock next to them were about 20 sheep, the first I've seen in Spain. They also had bells around their necks.

Delicious Galician broth

The Way home for the cows!

Early afternoon I reached Herrerias, and stopped for some Galician broth soup before I tackled the big hill ahead. Refuelled I carried on.



Ascended from 705m altitude at Herrerias to 1,300m at the top of the hill (the Spanish call it a mountain and it certainly felt like one today). Gradient sometimes easy, but more often moderate. Panoramic views over the valley, and layers of hills were the redeeming feature! 

Track through pretty woodland

Passed 3 people on horseback on the narrow trail, followed by a farmer on horseback shifting about 20 cows which looked as if they had just been milked.

Panoramic views from top of hill

My legs certainly felt as if they had had a workout by the time I reached the top.
Passed a sign near O'Cebriero which stated that it is still 160.9Kms. as I am doing 325Kms, that meant I am half way.

O'Cebreiro Catholic Church

Striking simple crucifix and altar

Had a rest for a while before going out to explore the village, which has a grand total of 50 residents. Went to a moving Pilgrims' Mass at 7pm. Prayers were read by other pilgrims in Spanish, English, German, French, and Korean. And they were only a fraction of the many nationalities represented at the Mass. Afterwards the priest invited all the pilgrims up on to the altar for a special blessing -  there were over 100 of us!

Have just had dinner, and am about to soak in a bath before I head to bed. Won't take any rocking!

Easier day tomorrow, I hope - 20Km gently downhill for most of The Way.

Today's Gratitude Item:

Having the opportunity to finally visit Spain in this special way, and the lovely Spanish people who are warm wonderful hosts. 

As we walk along, especially in the country areas, many will greet us and wish us "Buen Camino"

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