Day 6 Ponferrado to Villafranca del Bierzo

Ponferrada to Villablanca del Bierzo -2 June - 23Kms

"Walking, I am listening to a deeper way......all my ancestors are behind me .'Be still, they say. Watch and listen. You are the result of the love of thousands'."

Linda Hogan

We are pilgrims on a journey

Had an early start today at 7.45am in cool overcast (but not raining, thank goodness) conditions. Very lush rural scenery on rolling hills. Great walking conditions among vineyards, cherry orchards and some picturesque villages.

Old stone buildings still used as homes and cafes

This one past its use by date

Freestanding grape vines

Spain has the largest surface area of vineyards in the world. They look quite different to what we are used to seeing in New Zealand.In areas with lower rainfall the freestanding vines are spaced over eight feet apart so that the small amount of water may be available to the vines. There is some controlled irrigation in some areas and this has brought yields up to European standards. The traditional vines are bush trained in the goblet shape, while areas with more resources are starting to train their vines on wires as is the fashion in other European areas.

Vines being trained along wires 

It is interesting being on The Way. Sometimes, usually early in the day on starting, there are several pilgrims around me, and usually someone wanting to chat. Other times there is nobody to be seen, and I enjoy communing with nature, listening to the birds, praying,  thinking my own thoughts, reflecting and admiring the sweeping views. 

Talking of birds, one of the funny sights is watching storks return to their nests with food for their chicks. They site these nests at the top of power pylons or church bell towers. So like the bald headed eagles in North America, they have a 360 degree view to protect their young. I've taken some photos for you to see.

Today tried to ignore the jetstreams of aircraft flying north from Madrid to Paris or the UK. Didn't fit my nature focus!

Mariet & Catherine from Norway having delicious brunch

Orange juice requested at cafes is juiced in a large machine - skins and all. Refreshingly delicious.

Tiny balcony

Arrived at Villafranca del Bierzo at 2pm and checked in to my accommodation, which is a spacious room with a tiny balcony in a private guest house. After a leisurely shower and some clothes washing met some of my new friends in the nearby plaza for some cool drinks. Very pleasant.

My lovely guest room in historic stone building

Then Jose and I went to check out the Basilica for Mass times. Another magnificent church. Huge but plain on the outside, but with the most amazing altar, windows and chapels inside. It is the feast of Corpus Christi tomorrow, and preparations were going on for a parade and celebrations at the only Mass on Sunday at midday. Way too late for pilgrims with a 30+Km mountain walk to tackle.

Villafranca del Bierzo Basilica

Magnificent altar and windows

However there was to be a 7.30pm Mass this evening, which suited fine.

I was heading down a side street at 7.10pm to go to it, when I heard beautiful singing coming from a nearby very ordinary building. 

Saw a little statue of St Joseph in the alcove above the door and read the signs to see that it was St Joseph's Convent. I looked inside to see eight nuns creating the music in perfect harmony. I checked with one of them, and she assured me that Mass was indeed scheduled to start there in 15min time, and gestured for me to sit in one of the seats. All sung. What a bonus for me. Even though it was all in Spanish, the Mass follows the same form everywhere.

In the Middle Ages, the town is first mentioned in 791. The origin of the modern town is connected to the Way of St. James, as a rest place for the pilgrims who started to reach Santiago de Compostela from the 9th century. Villafranca is mentioned as an intermediate stage between Rabonal and Triacastela.

After Mass, at 8.30pm, headed to a local restaurant for dinner. The proprietor recognised me from having talked to us when we were buying drinks from his bar upstairs on the Plaza earlier, and made me very welcome. There was no-one else in the restaurant at that time. The Spanish shut their businesses and have siestas from about 1 to 4pm, and don't dine until late. Sure enough, by the time I left an hour later at 9.30pm, it was packed.


Had a delicious broth soup followed by three tasty small trout for my main course. They were accompanied by a boiled potato and roast capsicum. Bacon and chorizo were interesting accompaniments! Rare to get green veges with a main course, even though there are plenty available in the shops. Need to order a side salad. Señor Proprietor refilled my wine glass twice without being asked so I politely asked him to stop, or I would have been on my ear!!

When I asked whether he had walked this next stage of The Camino, he admitted he hadn't. When I suggested he might join us tomorrow he thought that was a huge joke. Time for me to stack up some Zzzzzs so I am up for it.

Today's Gratitude Item:
The sun's warmth and glow when it breaks through on cloudy days.

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