Day 4 Rabanal del Camino to Ponferrada

Rabanal del Camino to Ponferrada -Thursday 31 May - 33Km

"You just follow the path, and whatever is there. Nothing is set and there's a great freedom in that. Change is the only constant. It is very hard for most of us to accept"

A long day. Left Rabanal del Camino at 8.15am and arrived at my hotel at Ponferrada at 6pm! Had three half hour stops along The Way. A long day.

Walking through wild broom and heather going up the hill. Steady ascent in fine overcast conditions for 7.3Km, with sweeping views of the valley and far hills.

To la Cruz de Ferro -a tall simple iron cross at 1,504m above sea level. It has become one of the abiding symbols of the pilgrim way of St James. The bottom of it was rather a jumbled mess of ribbons, scarves etc, but they must have had meaning to the pilgrims who had tied and left them there. Today the cross was shrouded in mist. Tradition is to bring a stone from your home to add, with a prayer, to the pile surrounding it, which I did. Mine was from the Nelson boulder bank, which is one of only two naturally occurring sea banks of its kind in the world, sheltering the Nelson Haven and port wharves.

Smiling Abbey

Hills as far as the eye can see

Heading off downhill I was joined by Abbey, one of the Minnesota Uni girls I had met yesterday. She said that at their briefing this morning, they were asked to observe the pilgrim spirit of the Camino by walking solo and spending the time in contemplation and reflection as they walked up to the Iron Cross. She said that she doesn't often have much time by herself, and she appreciated doing so in this special environment.  Really enjoyed her company and conversation as we walked along heading downhill.

Further down we were joined by Nanette, the professor who had organised the trip for these students, and was guiding them. Vivacious, fit, interesting woman.

Slippery rocky section of track

Track climbed way above road, before steeply descending

Welcome lunch stop

From the top of the last hill could see Molinesca at the base of the hill and Ponferrada away in the distance. It looked a very long way away.

View of Molinesca with Ponferrada in far distance

Some people I had met had stopped in Molinseca, at the bottom of the hill, for the night, and were enjoying cool wines and beers outside one of the cafes when I passed through there. I was so tempted to stop and join them, but resisted the temptation. A chap from Denver whom I had met a couple of times had stopped for a coke and potato crisps. He was also going on to Ponferrada so joined me. It was good to have company for those last 6Km, as my legs were telling me that I had almost used up my day's allocation When he asked whether I wanted to take the scenic route or shortcut in to town (by 1Km) I was keen for the shorter route, as was he. His Fitbit late pm said that he had walked 47,000 steps, so I would have done more with shorter legs! My pedometer is useless as it only records about half, so not using it anymore.

Quite a tough day, possibly the hardest one I shall be doing. Shall let you know at the finish.

Spacious nice room at the hotel, looking out to the hills. Was delighted to find a deep long spa bath, so filled and sank in to it. Pressed the button to get the jets working, and nothing happened so enjoyed a relaxing soak anyway. When I got out found a sign that said guests needed to phone the receptionist to activate the spa before getting in, Ah well. maybe tomorrow.

Off to bed now. Think I am dropping off to sleep about 1 min after my head touches the pillow these days.

Am having two nights here for two reasons - a rest day, and also I want to explore the Castilla de Los Templarios, which is huge, and has a fascinating history. Mark from Denver had walked the Camino last year as well,and when he reached Santiago had rented a car and driven 214 Km back here specifically to look through the castle. Said that it is well worth a visit.

Looking forward to having a sleep in to start with, and a leisurely day.

Today's Gratitude Item:

The rain which gives life and nourishment to crops and pastures (but is so far doing it at convenient times for me!) and makes Spain such a beautiful green country at this time of year.

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