Tuesday 31 July 2018

Barcelona

Barcelona 24 - 26 May
With only one station change I arrived in the city directly opposite my Airbnb accommodation in a seven floor apartment building.
View from AirBnB Apartment
An ancient lift delivered me safely to the sixth floor. My room was spacious and comfortable with city views.
Slept well and set off sightseeing early on Friday to make the most of my day. A few drops of rain early looked ominous but fortunately it cleared and by 10am the sun was shining. I purchased a ten trip ticket which could be used on either the metro or buses. Metro trains are on time, frequent, fast and usually crowded. However they are just a means of getting from A to B as they are all underground, so I mainly used buses so that I could see something of the city.
Chapel at Cathedral


Sarcophagus




BARCELONA  GOTHIC. CATHEDRAL
I went to Mass in the side Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto which contains a cross said to date from the time of the Battle of Lepanto in 1571. It also had a very elaborate coffin behind the altar which had a likeness of its
inhabitant lying on top of it! Mass was celebrated by three priests. The one who lead the singing could have moonlighted as an opera singer. With the     congregation of about 50 joining in, it was special to listen to.





Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia.jpg
Barcelona Cathedral, built 15th century




The cathedral was constructed from the 13th to 15th centuries, with the principal work done in the 14th century. The cloister, which encloses the Well of the Geese (Font de les Oques) was completed in 1448. The full name is the Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia. She is the  co-patron saint of Barcelona, a young virgin who, according to Catholic tradition, suffered martyrdom at 13 years of age during Roman times.  Among its attractions are the 13 geese (number to match Eulalia's age) which are kept at the secluded Gothic cloister, which has a garden and a pond.In the late 19th century, the neo-Gothic façade was constructed over the nondescript exterior that was common to Catalan churches. The roof is notable for its gargoyles, featuring a wide range of animals, both domestic and mythical.

Inside, the cathedral is vaulted over five aisles, the outer two divided into about 20 chapels, devoted to various saints, and Mary. Some are very ornate, and others have striking paintings. The high altar is raised, allowing a clear view into the crypt. A magnificent church to visit.

PORTS,  MARINAS and BEACHES
Port Cable Car
Lots of activity at the port, and sailors arriving for Friday afternoon racing on some very impressive large yachts. A fine day with a steady breeze blowing, it would have beaten sitting at a desk for most of them. Although that is probably how most of them earned the money to pay for their expensive boats. There were several "super yachts" alongside the wharves, one of which had its own helicopter. A high pylon like structure in the middle of the port was the anchor point for a cable car. The Transbordador Aeri del Port (Port Cable Car) was built for the 1929 Barcelona Universal Exposition and links the Barceloneta beach to Montjuïc on an adjacent hill overlooking the harbour. The red and white cabins can accommodate 20 people and take 8 minutes per one way trip.
                             
Some of the fleet
Old yacht well restored





Super  yacht with own helicopter
Main Barcelona beach 
Long sweeping beach
The swimming beaches with their golden sand were popular on a sunny day. 



The sightseer


Maria, my lovely guide
 Heading back in to the city, I wanted to head to a park on the other side, so asked the lady sitting beside me. However her English was as limited as my Spanish but with the aid of a map, I was able to show here where I was heading. She then roped in a young woman sitting across the aisle from us, who willingly gave me directions on how to get to Park Guell. Maria then got off the bus at my stop just to show me where to catch the next one.


BARCELONA. TRAFFIC
It was interesting watching the traffic. Taxis are all black with yellow doors and boots, and seem to have a different set of road rules to everyone else, being driven aggressively. The dominant means of private transport seems to be Vespas and smaller motor bikes. All of the riders wear good helmets, and their road rules dare them to race the lights, or even ignore them, weaving among crossing pedestrians if they think they can get away with it. Cyclists, many of whom seem to be young 20s to 30s visitors, don't wear helmets, and play Russian roulette with the cars and Vespas etc. Many work vans and trucks but not a lot of private vehicles.
Much safer to catch a bus or the Metro, would be my observation!

PARK  GUELL
Gaudi's house in park setting- now a museum
The Park Güell is a public park system composed of gardens and architectural oddities located on Carmel Hill. With urbanization in mind, Eusebi Güell assigned the design of the park to Antoni Gaudí, a renowned architect and the face of Catalan modernism. The park was built between 1900 and 1914 and was officially opened as a public park in 1926. In 1984, UNESCO declared the park a World Heritage Site under "Works of Antoni Gaudí".



















Güell and Gaudí conceived this park, situated within a natural park. They imagined an organized grouping of high-quality homes, decked out with all the latest technological advancements to ensure maximum comfort, finished off with an artistic touch. 

They also envisioned a community strongly influenced by symbolism, since, in the common elements of the park, they were trying to synthesize many of the political and religious ideals shared by patron and architect: therefore there are noticeable concepts originating from political Catalanism – especially in the entrance stairway where the Catalan countries are represented – and from Catholicism – the Monumento al Calvario, originally designed to be a chapel. The mythological elements are so important: apparently Güell and Gaudí's conception of the park was also inspired by the Temple of Apollo of Delphi.
Flamboyant walkway supported by arches
Doric columns viewed from entrance gate













Park Güell is designed and composed to bring the peace and calm that one would expect from a park. The buildings flanking the entrance, though very original and remarkable with fantastically shaped roofs with unusual pinnacles, fit in well with the use of the park as pleasure gardens and seem relatively inconspicuous in the landscape when one considers the flamboyance of other buildings designed by Gaudí.



High cross with gatehouse in foreground
Barcelona viewed from Park Guell










A large cross at the park's high-point offers a great view of Barcelona and the bay. 






LA  SAGRADA  FAMILIA
La Sagrada Familia has been called both the most inspirational and most controversial building in modern architecture. It is certainly one of the most outlandish buildings which I have ever seen.
it is a Roman Catholic basilica and one of the most recognizable, lauded, and controversial structures in the last several centuries of architecture. Despite being under construction for over a century, the basilica remains incomplete due to the complexity of Gaudí's designs and a few other historical factors.  Gaudí, known in history as 'God's Architect' for his incredible religious structures, was said to have remarked that his client was in no hurry! La Sagrada Familia would be completed in its own time, which is now hoped to be in about 20 years. The scaffolding and cranes around the new builds are astonishing themselves.
Still a work in progress

Incredible detail in the facades

A striking tableau
Botanical themes feature
Striking interior








It was difficult to imagine this building as a place of Catholic worship with queues of people paying admission fees to even step in the door. Stalls selling all manner of souvenirs, security guards, and even having to put all belongings through scanning X- ray belts added to the secular focus.
I hope that when Masses and other ceremonies are held there, that the congregation is not charged to attend!

It was inspired in the 19th century by a Spaniard named Josep Bocabella. Bocabella had founded a religious organization called the Spiritual Association of Devotees of Saint Joseph, which was campaigning to have a new church erected in Barcelona dedicated to the Holy Family.

Eventually, the association raised enough money to purchase some land and hire an architect named Francisco de Paula del Villar y Lozano. Paula's original plan was to build a Neo-Gothic church, which was a very popular style in the 19th century, whose buildings were based on the magnificent Gothic churches of medieval Europe, characterized by their high levels of decoration and towering spires. The first stone of the new church was laid in 1882, but Paula resigned soon after. In 1883, construction of the Sagrada Familia then fell to another architect: Antoni Gaudí.
He immediately began changing the design of the church. While he was committed to the generally Gothic style, he also felt that this was naturally limited. Medieval Gothic structures relied on large support structures called buttresses, and Gaudí did not want to imitate this. He believed that God's house should be free of bulky supports, yet limitless in its height and grandeur. To resolve this problem, Guadí turned to nature, seeking inspiration in what he saw as God's architecture.

There's a reason the Sagrada Familia today looks almost botanical. Not only are the design motifs largely based on natural and organic forms, but the support structures of the church are actually modeled on the stems of plants. This unique design was stronger, lighter, and allowed for a greater amount of natural light inside the church. Art historians, therefore, identify the Sagrada Familia partly with the neo-Gothic movement, but also with the emerging Art Nouveau of the late 19th century that stressed organic and flowing forms.
You will see in the photos that the exterior is incredibly busy, with a multitude of figures, words (Sanctus features hugely),  tableaux and depictions of plants and trees. It would probably take a year to examine them all in detail. I was delighted to find that the interior was light and spacious with stunning stained glass windows. The downstairs crypt could be seen through arched windows at the side of the main altar.
Certainly well worth seeing. Gaudi's imagination had no boundaries!!
The striking La Sagrada Familia

Crypt below main altar


















Some of the structure


Monday 30 July 2018

Leon 26 -28 May

Leon (population 130,000)  Saturday 26 May to Monday 28 May


Had a 7 hr train journey on Saturday at speeds up to 160kph from Barcelona to Leon. I booked it a couple of months ago and opted for a first class carriage for only an extra 10 Euro. Comfortable seat and I kept myself occupied writing notes on my Barcelona stay.
Hillside village and quarry


Interesting to view the Spanish scenery. Very green pastures and spring crops. Didn't pass as many towns and villages as I had expected we would.
Did see some quaint ones perched on hillsides. Two with huge quarries behind them, which no doubt provide the livelihood. Saw several huge industrial complexes adjacent to the railway lines. One was a VW factory. There were hundreds of new vehicles on transporters or in adjacent yards waiting to go to their new owners.

The Meseta, and Camino track

Approaching Leon, the train crosses the Meseta, the name given to the large and expansive flat plains of central Spain. Beginning just after Burgos, and ending in Astorga, the Camino Frances travels through the northern point of the meseta for approximately 220km. As it was spring, there were many fields of growing crops.


On arrival in Leon checked in to my hotel, which was in a pedestrian precinct in the older part of the city.
Saturday night was party night! Numerous groups of young women on Hen Party nights, with the bride to be adorned in a veil, also many groups of young men. As there was a big football match on, lots were wearing their favourite team's colours as they supported the local bars and cafes. The area is nicknamed Barrio Humedo (wet quarter as in alcohol)! Numerous armed police around, but I didn't see any obvious drunkeness or bad behaviour. Had a delicious dinner in a local cafe. Hardly anyone there when I arrived at 8 pm, but really humming by 9 pm, Everyone was given a delicious appetiser with their first drink. Many of the Spanish businesses are closed for siestas for three hours in the afternoon, then the usual dinner hours are from 9pm until midnight. Fortunately they have worked out that the peregrinos (pilgrims) need to be fed earlier, for several reasons - they are hungry after walking for 5 to 8 hours; they need to be in bed by 9 or 10pm in preparation for the next day; and most of them come from cultures which have dinner early evening.

Magnificent Leon Cathedral







                                                                               











Sunday morning I went to 9am Mass at the nearby Leon Cathedral, which is stunning with stained glass windows of 1800 square metres glowing with the sun shining through them. It was built between 1205 and 1301 in the Gothic style, which was usually quite gloomy inside, so it was quite a break from tradition. The cathedral was packed, and the congregation were in full voice to the accompaniment of the magnificent organ.






Afterwards In the plaza adjacent to the cathedral there was an event going on in which probably 100 chefs were carving legs of cured pork in an attempt to get it recorded in the Guiness Book of Records.












Then there were speeches, a big net full of balloons were released, and platters of the meat were handed around to the watching crowd. I appreciated getting a taste - it was delicious and I had seen it in the delicatessan at a Barcelona supermarket for €129 Kilo (about NZ $218!!)


Casa de Botines Palace - another Gaudi design
Quiet spot in plaza for reading!












I spent the rest of the day sightseeing. At about 3pm I was in my room and looked at the weather forecast to see what to expect on the Camino. threatened rain on the next three days wasn't what I wanted! At the time I was about to walk about 3 Km to a shopping centre. It was a sunny day with clear blue skies at the time I was looking, so I was surprised when the forecast said it was expecting rain in 73 minutes. Yeah, right, I thought, but took the precaution of taking my umbrella. Sure enough, 55 minutes later it came bucketing down for about ten minutes, then stopped.

Relaxing spa
After I arrived back at the hotel, I enjoyed a swim in the pool, and a relaxing soak in the spa pool.

Dinner that evening was different but delicious. I had asked for a pork dish with roast vegetables. When it arrived, the pork was artfully arranged on a slice of toast, but I couldn't see the roast veges. They were hidden under the pork -eggplant, capsicum and zucchini. Delicious, as was the rare pork.

Looking forward to my first day on the Camino tomorrow.


Friday 27 July 2018

Day 1 Camino de Santiago - May / June 2018

Day 1 Leon to Villavante - Monday 28 May - 33km. 

A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. Lao Tzu.

I've decided to put a quote at the top of each of the day's  accounts of my pilgrimage. Thought today's appropriate as I start on this journey of 325 Km.  Alisa's niece Leila and nephews Oscar and Jake worked out that it is the equivalent of going from Perth to Augusta, which sounds rather daunting!
Ready to go


Breakfast at the hotel this morning was fresh orange juice, muesli and yoghurt, the biggest best croissant I have ever eaten, with butter and marmalade; and a cafe con leche (good latte). I have brought my muesli from NZ, which I am pleased about, as there weren't any cereals on offer. Yoghurt and a banana were given to me to go with it when I asked for them.

Basilica of  San Isidora de Leon





Then it was pack on and out the door to start my Camino!
I walked my first day on the Spanish Camino de Santiago today from Leon to Villavante.  For my birthday our family had given me, among other things, "a Pilgrim's Guide to The Camino de Santiago (the Camino Frances)" by John Brierley. A wonderfully informative little resource, it gives a detailed map of each day's walk, a diagram of the route showing elevations, features to look out for on the way, and the author's personal reflections. This particular way is one of the oldest, having been traversed by pilgrims for 1100 years from St Jean Pied de Port in the very south of France. There is a steep ascent to start with over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles in north-eastern Spain, and the Camino then goes in a westerly direction to Santiago de Compostela - a distance of 800Km.It is traditional for pilgrims to have a scallop shell

Bernesga River
It is traditional for pilgrims to have a scallop shell tied to their backpacks to identify them as they walk on the Camino. I put stickers of the NZ flag and a little kiwi on mine.
We all carry a "Credential de Santiago" - Pilgrim's Passport - and get it stamped as we go along at churches, our accommodation etc.
My first stamp is from the Leon Cathedral, so an auspicious start.
16th century stone Puente rio Bernesga
I had booked with an Irish company, Camino Ways, who had suggested the best routes to take; pre-booked my accommodation, which included breakfast every day and dinner in all but three of the larger towns; and one of the best things was that they arranged to have my bag picked up every morning and delivered to my next destination. So all I had to carry was a day pack.
Beautiful city gardens


The main route from Leon first wound its way through the old part of the city and its historic buildings, lovely parks and river for about thirty minutes. Then about an hour walking through suburbia to the edge of town.




Hobbit houses!



An interesting sight on leaving Leon was several what looked like Hobbit houses set in to the hillside, which had apparently been used in the past for keeping food and wine cool.

Bodegas -used as storage units for food and wine pre-fridges








Looking back over Leon











Also had a great vista looking back
over Leon.

Welcome grassy track, all to myself!





The main trail from there ran adjacent to the highway for the next two days, which wasn't what I would have wanted. Camino Ways suggested an alternative scenic route through the countryside away from traffic to Mazarife, a small village.



Spring crops poking up among the stones

New crops growing beside the track
were thriving in very stony soil.
Met and walked with some interesting people along The Way -Masana and Loriana, a couple from northern Italy who had started in Bruge; a couple, David and Sandy, from Louisville, Kentucky. Sandy was limping and had a knee support on. Said that the knee wasn't a new injury, but one she just lived with. Dan, recently retired from Boeing, and his mid-20s daughter Emily from southern California, Emily had recently graduated with a health sciences degree, and was planning to do a post- graduate opthalmology Masters.

Scallop shells & yellow arrows show The Way
Lunch stop with Dan and Emily













The forecaster had threatened that there would be rain all day, but fortunately the weather gods didn't listen to him, and conditions were perfect -overcast and calm and about 16C. Dan and his daughter stopped for a lunch break with me. They had started at St John Pied de Port so had already covered about 500 Km. Dan took off his boots and socks after lunch to reveal some quite nasty blisters on his toes, which he retaped. Sincerely hope I avoid those. Am wearing two layer Wrightsocks which Desiree recommended. They came with a promise of no blisters, so hope they live up to it.


The plan was to waIk 23 Km to Mazarife, but accommodation was fully booked there, and my reservation was for a place 10Km further on, so as the weather was still good,  and I was feeling good, I decided to keep going. I could have been picked up in Mazarife, and taken back there to resume in the morning, but thought I would kick myself in the morning if it was raining. So I walked 33km and did have some showers for the last hour, but my umbrella and jacket kept me mainly dry. The last 10km from Mazarife was flat going, on an asphalt road at first which looked to stretch to eternity!


There was no-one else walking, and only a few cars passing, some of the drivers tooting and waving. To keep myself amused, I sang while I walked along. During The Wheels on the Bus and Old Mc Donald I could visualise adorable Olivia watching me with her big bright brown eyes, moving her head and feet to the beat as she listened. When I eventually reached an intersection at the end of the asphalt, i looked back to see a sign saying it was 4 Km back to Mazarife. No way, it was at least 6 Km.  When I arrived at my destination I was surprised to find the my R) calf was quite tight. Probably because it had been flat walking and hadn't been stretched at all in those last 10 Km.

With Mercedes by a roaring fire
Staying tonight in a lovely country home. Mercedes, the owner, and her husband Marcel, are absolutely delightful. On a shelf above the fire is a row of clogs, which Mercedes said are ideal over shoes on wet ground
when they go outside.







Breakfast with Fiona, Francoise, & Antonio,





I had a hot shower, massaged my calf, and did some stretches, and it feels OK now. 
There are five other pilgrims staying - 3 Aussies, Fiona & Francoise from Melbourne and Antonio from Adelaide; and two Dutch women, Joss and Mary Jo. Mercedes has just cooked us a delicious dinner. Conversation during it was interesting, as four of the others had started at St Jean Pied de Port, and had stories to tell.


My bed looks very comfortable and inviting. You will see that it has a wide pillow with a single pillow case. In Spain, this is the case no matter how wide the bed. A king size bed has a very long pillow. Interesting.



Pouring with rain now so hope it stops by morning. So only 21 Kms to Astorga tomorrow.
And at the bottom of the pages, I am going to note something I am grateful for.
Today's is:
Having the good health, and being fit enough, to come on this pilgrimage.
I was really happy to achieve 33 Kms on my first day
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